For a large part of Malaysian history, the Sultanate of Johor remained the only independent state to resist first Portuguese and then British rule. Once called the ‘last defender of Malaysian traditions’, Johor is centred around its dynamic capital city, Johor Bahru (or JB, as it’s universally known). Incidentally, the name ‘Johor’ is cognatewith our familiar Hindi word for precious stones, both deriving from the same Arabic root jauhar. So no prizes for guessing that this port was a center for the spice trade and hence frequented by Arab merchants.
Today JB is an urban, industrial capital, but well in the shadow of its mighty neighbour-Singapore.
Situated on the two sides of Johor Straits, the cities are as different as chalk from cheese-JB is all bustle, brashness and noise, where Singapore is order, order and, well, order! It is perhaps this lack of order that attracts Singaporeans by the droves to their Malaysian playground, a short drive away from the city-state. For Johor has one thing that Singapore doesn’t - a vast and green hinterland in the lush suburbs of the larger Johor State. It’s a role JB is more than comfortable with, offering everything that’s either unavailable or expensive in Singapore – namely, cheaper sex.
Orientation
LEGEND JI =Jalan; Mt = Mount; TC = traveler’s cheques
Johor’s most visible land mark is the 1,056-m Johor-Singapore Causeway over the Johor Straits. The eastern coast is covered by Lido Beach and the Johor Bahru Duty free Zone. Off the causeway to your left is JI Ismail, which blends into JI Abu Bakar, the main thoroughfare. The Dataran Bandaraya (City Square) is on this road.
▪ Maps from Tourist Office (see Fast Facts)
Things To See & Do
JB today still remains the city where travelers merely stop by on their way to Melaka or KL. While that’s still probably the best thing to do if you’re short on time, there are layers to Map that are worth exploring and there’s plenty to do if you’re here for a day or two.
Dataran Bandaraya
The city squire is Johor’s central venue for events such as parades and festivals, with a huge screen that allows visitors to watch live transmissions of events, and popular as an evening hang-out. There’s a large stage surrounded by an array of fountains, all against the backdrop of a colonial clock tower and a towering flagstaff.
▪ Location City Square, bounded by JI Abu Bakar, JI Abdul Samad and JI Sungai Cat Warning Dataran Bandaraya is one of the sites of JB’s sex tourism industry. Single women may feel unsafe here after sundown
Sultan Abu Bakar Royal Museum
Legacies of the sultanate of Johor still dot the city and count as its major attractions. The first sultan was Abu in popular imagination. Sprawling and spectacular the former palace of the Sultan was built over two years (1864-66) incorporating Abu Bakar’s own architectural innovations. The blue-and-white building now houses a large collection of memorabilia related to the Sultanate of Johor by order of His Majesty Sultan Iskander, the current ruler.
The historical artifacts and throne room have been thrown open to visitor, displaying the state regalia of the royal family, their personal effects and the mandatory antiques and Malay weapons.
Sultan Abu Bakar Royal Mosque
Another of Abu Bakar’s creations, it seems the architectural twin of the Sultan’s Palaces, with its strikingly similar low white structure topped by a blue-tiled gable roof. This beautiful mosque, with its high bell tower-like minarets and dome reminiscent of an old European cathedral can accommodate 2,000 worshippers. It sits on top of a hill looking out across the Straits onto Singapore.
Mahamariamman Temple
Near the train station is the Tamil Mahamariamman Temple, with a large and colourful goopuram, patronized by a large cross section of JB’s substantial Tamil population. There is a constant stream of visitors, and the temple is surrounded by ever-busy stalls selling flowers, food and even posters of MGR!
Lido Beach
The best thing about this 7-km beach on the Johor Straits its view of Singapore’s skyline-the contrast between the beach, the blue waters and the distant bubble of development is fascinating. Other than that, Lido has pretty decent sand for a city beach, and is a good place to come and take a walk along the water. Perhaps if you get here early, you would like to the causeway, or ride out for a spot of kelong fishing off the coast.
The Orchid Valley
It’s claimed that Johor is home to the largest orchid farm in the world with nearly 1.5 million plants and 80 different species. Against the backdrop of the
Gunung Pulai Peak, visitors can take in the vast landscaped gardens dotted with lakes and waterfalls and stop by the children’s park, or head for the terraces that offer a view of the sprawling vistas surrounding the farm. There’s also a tram ride that literally tunnels through masses of orchids in bloom.
SHOPPING
Hail a cab for 88JI Ibrahim Sultan to get to the Johor Bahru Duty Free Zone. The giant complex has a 400-room hotel, a five-level mall, restaurants and cheaper shopping than anywhere in Singapore.
As for mall, the place to go is the City Square Mall at 106/108 JI Wong Ah Fook, connected by walkway to the train station. It has the entire local and foreign designer outless you could ask for: there’s seed, Padini Authentics, Bata and lots of other reasonably priced chic clothing chains.
WHERE TO STAY
The area around Mahamariamman Temple is full of good (south) Indian restaurants, many open 24 hours and all with good thalis – Restoran Nilla is the pick of the bunch. Near the waterfront, Muthu Vilas is an excellent place with large helpings of very tasty food. The food Court in the City Square Mall is another option. The stalls selling grilled seafood and meats at Seget Market start 6 pm onwards.
Cuisine
Singapore’s cuisine is bewildering in its variety. For visitors with an appetite for culinary adventure, the food alone is reason enough to visit this multicultural ilse. What with eating being a national passion, food is everywhere – from humble eateries along the pavements to the restaurants in luxury hotels serving haute cuisine. “Have you eaten?” is a popular, traditional from of greeting.
Singapore owes its reputation as food lovers paradise to its fusion of cultures. While there’s good, authentic Chinese, Malay and Indian food to be had, the blend of ethnic ingredients and methods has created a cuisine uniquely Singaporean. Many popular dishes have roots in Indonesia, Thailand or Vietnam. The Peranakan (Straits-Chinese) community, itself a blend of cultures, has its own Nyonya food.
Fiery fish head curry is a dish more local than Indian. This Singapore speciality served in Little India is a curry made with a red snapper head and eaten on banana leaves with poppadoms and pickles, and is relished by all communities. Yu sheng is yet another example of local creativity. Served only during the 15-day lunar New Year celebration, this is a delightful salad of vegetables, raw fish and crackers, mixed in delicious sauces (like bhelpuri) and tossed high by diners in unison for rising prosperity. This custom is unique to Singapore.
So, where should a visitor go for a ‘truly Singapore’ experience?
HAWKER CENTER
Singapore’s image as a gourmet paradise was born in its hawker food centers. The incredible variety of good food at reasonable prices is the biggest attraction here. Hawker food centers are everywhere in this island nation. Cooking aromas make it easy to discover their location, usually within a public market or shopping center.
The city’s best known hawker center is the Newton Circus Food Center (Newton MRT Center). Here, people from all walks of life rub shoulders over local fare. Stroll past the stalls, make your selection, indicate where you are siting and the dish will be brought to you. Noodle and rice dishes are local staples enjoyed here 24 hours a day.
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