Hong
Kong has more than 250 outlying islands, but only a few are inhabited. Prime
candidates for a day's outing are Lantau, Cheung Chau and Lamma off Hong
Kong Island's south-west coast.
Lantau's Big Buddha
Take the ferry to the biggest of the outlying islands, Lantau, which is
twice the size of Hong Kong Island but home to very few residents. Which
means that green, green
Lantau is overrun with parks and walking trails. You will have seen the
looming mass of Lantau Peak (3,086 ft) as your plane came in to land at Chek
Lap Kok. You must come here again to visit the giant copper statue of
Shakyamuni Buddha at the glittering Po Lin Monastery. The view of the green
island spread out below is worth the climb up to the statue, surrounded by
stone figures eternally bowing in obeisance. Wrap up a visit to the
monastery with a vegetarian Buddhist Cantonese meal, which is included in
your entry ticket. Walk off your meal along the well-marked trail up to
Lantau Peak which leads off from right nearby, then wend your way back to
the Ngong Ping Tea Gardens near the monastery, Hong Kong's only tea
plantation which serves a great high tea and has horse-riding for the kids. ▪ Connections Ferry to Lantau from Outlying Islands Ferry Pier in
Central.
Elsewhere on Lantau Island is Mui Wo, or Silvermine Bay, walking distance
from the Mui Wo Ferry Pier. Many Hong Kongers come here for a weekend at the
beach. This is also where you get connections to the early 19th-century fort
of Tung Chung at the foot of Rocky Lion Hill on Lantau, built by the Chinese
to thwart the opium trade which would eventually see the loss of Hong Kong
to the British in the Opium Wars. Climb up to the fort and inspect the
cannons lined up in a row facing the sea. This slightly desolate acre was
occupied by the Japanese during their brutal occupation of the territory
during WWII. A journey across Lantau from Silvermine brings you to the old,
old fishing village of Tai-O, where you can buy dried fish amidst the
traditional stilt houses and fisjiing boats of this preserved village.
Another year and Hong Kong will have another weapon to enhance its status as
the most exciting destination in Asia. The world's fifth Disneyland is set
to open in 2005, in a decontaminated shipyard off Penny's Bay in Lantau
Island, within sight of the Tsing Ma Bridge to Tsing Yi.
Lamma Island The menu swims in tanks on Lamma Island, so be sure you're hungry
when you catch the ferry from the Central Pier to Hong Kong's third largest
island and the hometown of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon star Chow Yun Fat.
The ferry moves slowly out of Victoria Harbour, offering view Kowloon on the
right and the skyscrapers of Hong Kong Island to the left, skirts Ap Lei
Chau Island and picks its way past tugs, barges and junks on its 1/2 hr run
to Lamma. No taxis await you at the Yung Shue Wan Pier on Lamma, for no
vehicles are allowed on the island and you have no choice but to walk. A
walk along the green coast connects Yung Shue Wan to Lamma's other ferry
pier of Sok Kwu Wan, which has its own row of seafood restaurants. En route
take in the twin temples of Tin Hau, goddess of the sea. If you're here
between June and October, visit Sham Wan on southern Lamma to watch green
turtles come in to nest.
Cheung Chau
Every year, for the last hundred years, the people of Cheung Chau go
vegetarian for three days, in preparation for the great bun festival that
takes place outside the temple of Pak Tai, god of smooth sailing. Most
notable is the procession with brightly coloured floats and heavily made up
children in imperial costume. As midnight on the third day approached,
youngsters used to swarm up huge towers built entirely of buns, then tear
them off and throw them to the huge crowds gathered below. But this ritual
has been banned since 1987, after one of the towers toppled.
Cheung Chau is an excellent option for beach bumming; the clear waters off
Tung Wan and Kwun Vum Wan beaches are inviting. The latter also offers
canoeing and windsurfing, better options than bathing in the cold waters of
the South China Sea. Trek across the beaches to the Cheung Po Tsai Cave,
believed to have been a pirate's hideout which still contains his as yet
undiscovered treasure hoard.
Ferries from Central also leave for Po Toi Island, famous as Hong Kong's
South Pole, as it lies just off the south-eastern edge of the heart of the
territory, like Lamma, it offers walking trails and plenty of seafood. But
unique to Po To are the huge mats of salty seaweed you can buy at the shops
there.
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