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Untamed
Mystery
Kharga,
Dakhla, Farafra, Bahariyya and
Siwa: the Oases in Western Egypt
appear to be islands not only
in the almost endless sea of
Saharan sand, but also in time.
This is where fairy tales still
come true: for example seeing
the sunrise on the back of a
camel or, more uplifting still,
the spectacular views from high
up on the sand dunes into the
majestic expanse of desert.
Noon in the quiet shade of palm
groves, or perhaps even in the
cool pool of one of the splendid
eco-lodges, waiting until from
above a ripe date drops in one’s
mouth; a late afternoon walk
through Pharaonic temples or
between mud brick houses in
ageless villages; and the night
at a campfire in front of a
Bedouins’ tent, entwined by
garlands of tales, above ones
head nothing but the twinkling
firmament.
Fayoum:
Cairo’s front garden – a nature
paradise with a great past
The
oasis closest to the Nile valley
lies only one hour’s drive south
of Cairo and due to its fertility
has always served the capital
as a fruit and vegetable garden.
Fayoum is definitely a worthwhile
day trip even just to see the
luscious vegetation and the
rural idyll. The Fellahs working
the fields, the women and children
in front of the mud brick houses
at the palm-edged canals appear
just as graceful and timeless
as their ancestors depicted
on the wall-reliefs of the several
thousand year old tombs. The
230 sq km Qaroun Lake and the
adjacent Wadi El-Rayan nature
reserves prove to be valuable
protected areas, where in particular
ornithologists’ hearts beat
faster. In Wadi Al-Hitan, one
can marvel at the gigantic skeletons
of whales. In addition, awaiting
the culture-minded, are a number
of interesting historic monuments,
above all the pyramids of Hawara
and El Lahun.
Bahariyya:
palm groves,spa waters and golden
mummies
Known
as the “Northern Oasis” this
approximately 4000 sq km desert
depression, set in black volcanic
rock and reachable from Cairo
within six to seven hours’ drive,
has been well known since ancient
times for its ore mines, its
fertile gardens and its
healing waters. The site became
world famous when an enormous
necropolis dating back to Greco-Roman
times, was discovered by chance
towards the end of the 1990s.
The tombs contained thousands
and thousands of preciously
decorated mummies – a sensational
find, which gave the area the
name of the “Valley of the Golden
Mummies”.
Farafra:
green island on the fringe of
the White Desert
In the smallest and
most isolated oasis , the traveller
can visit several sulphur springs
and I Qasr EI-Farafra, its only
settlement, a fortress ruin
surrounded by palms. The biggest
attraction, just 30 km north,
is the “White Desert” – a landscape
of surreal beauty, in which
wind and weather have, over
time, carved and chiseled a
gigantic sculpture park out
of the chalk-white limestone
rock.
Dakhla:
traditional loam architecture
in front of spectacular rock
backdrop
The
Dakhla oasis already served
the Romans as a granary and
over vast stretches resembles
until today a fairy tale idyll.
One of the most beautiful of
all the 14 settlements besides
Balad – which means “village
of loam” – is El Qasr (“the
citadel”) with its narrow, shady
lanes. The lush green of the
many orchards, clover, rice
and peanut fields is a charming
contrast to the honey-coloured
dunes and rock quarries glowing
in pale-pink pastel. From the
heyday of ancient times several
temple and tomb sites bear witness.
Kharga:
once a caravan station, today
a prosperous provincial centre
The
southernmost oasis of the Western
Desert was once an important
station on the Darb el-Arbain
(the Forty Days Road) frequented
by camel and slave traders between
Northern and southern Africa.
Today it is the administrative
centre of the “New Valley” province
and (besides extensive
palm groves and fields) boasts
several independent settlements
such as Qasr Kharga, Bulaq and
Baris. Highlights among the
ancient sanctuaries include
the Early Christian necropolis
Al-Bagawat and, from Persian
times, the Hibis Temple.
Siwa:
Egypt’s westernmost oasis lures
with baths, lakes and legendary
temples
A
special place worth seeing is
the Oasis of Siwa, 500 km west
of the Nile, 300 km south of
Marsa Matruh and several
meters beneath sea level. 2700
years ago, while Rome was still
a village and Homer had just
completed the Iliad, Siwa already
enjoyed great renown within
the entire Mediterranean World
as home to the Oracle
of Amun Re. World fame was gained
in 331 AD when Alexander the
Great chose to stay there. Even
today something legendary and
unreal adheres to this oasis.
All the natural attractions,
date and olive groves, the lakes
surrounded by reeds, table mountains
and sand dunes as well as the
many gushing springs beckoning
bathers to swim, add to its
very own appeal. In addition
there are two picturesque hilltop
castles, several ancient sites
and a very distinctive culture
strongly influenced by Berber
traditions.
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