SHARJAH :
With its numerous excellent museums and galleries Sharjah's title of cultural capital of the Arab world is well-deserved, but it's an ironic choice considering that there is a deepening conservatism in the emirate . In addition to the cultural highlights, Sharjah offers excellent souq shopping and many souvenirs are cheaper here than in Dubai. Most visitors to Dubai tend to miss out on Sharjah, but it's easy to get to and well worth a visit. The main sites can be covered in just half a day and an excursion to the nearby Sharjah Natural History Museum & Desert Park is also recommended.

The centre of town is the area between the Corniche and Al-Zahra Rd, from the Central Market to Sheikh Sultan bin Saqr al-Qasimi Rd. It's not a huge area and it's pretty easy to get around on foot if the heat's not too debilitating.

Sharjah can be heilish to navigate when driving. Al-Wahda Rd, the main link with Dubai, is gridlocked during peak hours, especially at the King Faisal Sq overpass. The proliferation of roundabouts, lengthy street names and the absence of directions to Ajman or Dubai make it easy to get lost. Street signs tend to be written in very small print and have similar-sounding names - Sheikh Mohammed bin Sultan al-Qasimi Rd versus Sheikh Khalid bin Moohammed al-Qasimi Rd, for example.

One of the first places to visit in Sharjah is the Heritage Area and the first stop should be the All-Hisn Fort. This double-storey, three-towered fort sits somewhat forlornly in the middle of All-Borj Ave and was the residence of the ruling family of Sharjah. Originally built in 1820, it has been fully restored and houses a fascinating collection of artefacts, documents and photographs, many from the 1930s, showing members of the ruling Al-Qasimi family and the British Trucial Oman Scouts who were stationed here at the time. As you enter the fort there is a room on your left showing footage of the first Imperial Airways flights from London, which landed here in 1932 on their way to India. The difference between Sharjjah then and now is astonishing. Other rooms have displays of weapons (including a rifle called Abu Futilah, 'Father of Rifles', which was the first gun brought to the fort), Jewellery, currency and items used in the pearl trade.

The buildings in the Heritage Area block, just inland from the Corniche, between Al-Borj Ave and Al-Mina St, have all been faithfully reconstructed and incorporate traditional designs and materials such as sea rock and gypsum. Coming from Al-Borj Ave the first place you arrive at is Literature Sq. At the House of Poetry, facing the square, public poetry readings are sometimes held. The Sharjah Heritage Museum is housed in an historic building that is the former home of the Al-Naboodah family. The museum has traditional living rooms and displays of clothing and jewellery; and the architecture is typical of dwellings in the region. There is also a documentary on the history of Sharjah that is worth watching.

Next door to this is the Sharjah Islamic Museum,, which is a must. It includes a large collection of coins from all over the Islamic world and a number of handwritten Qurans and writing implements. There are ceramics from Turkey. Syria and Afghanistan, as well as a display on the covering of the Kaaba stone at Mecca, the most sacred shrine for Muslims, which includes a copy of the embroidered cloth. Next to the cloth is the original holy key bag, which once held the key to the Kaaba. There's also a remarkable map of the region made 1200 years ago, which is quite accurate once you realise that south is at the top.

Next stop should be the Souq al-Arsah, on the south side of Al-Borj Ave, which was restored by the government after large sections fell to pieces during the 1970s and '80s. Arsah means a large open space or courtyard and this place was originally a stop for travellers. The areesh (palm frond) roof and wooden pillars give it a traditional feel, and it's a lovely place to wander around and look for Arabic and Bedouin souvenirs. Despite the efforts to recreate a traditional atmosphere you can buy all kinds of non-Arabic souvenirs here too. There is also a traditional coffeehouse and restaurant, as well as a beautifully restored house that is now the charming little Dar al-Dhyafa hotel.

There are more restored old buildings north of the Sharjah Heritage Museum, towards the Corniche; admission is free and they keep the same hours as the museum. The Majlis of Ibrahim Mohammed al-Midfa is known for having the only round  wind tower in the Gulf. Ibrahim al-Midfa started the first newspaper in the UAE in 1927 and was an advisor to the ruling family. The main Al-Midfa House, across from the majlis (meeting room), has an elephant engraved on its door that's worth a peek.

Tucked away on the other (north) side of Al-Borj Ave is the Arts Area, where the excel lent Sharjah Art Museum houses a permanent collection of Orientalistic painting and contemporary art. The museum also hosts the cutting-edge Sharjah International Biennale and is by far the finest art gallery in the UAE. Of the 72 different small galleries, eight hold ,a permanent collection of 19th-century European paintings and lithographs from Sheikh Sultan bin Mohammed al-Qasimi's own collection. There's a library and smart coffee shop at the museum.

A couple of doors down from the museum is the Very special Arts Centre, which is both workshop and a gallery for disabled artists, and the Emirates fine Arts Society, which also display the works of local artists.

The Sharjah Archaeological Museum, near Cultural Sq, covers the earliest archaeological find', in the emirate (dating from 5000 BC) up to the beginning of the Islamic era. Video and audio are used effectively to avoid the crushingly dull experience often associated with archaeological museums. The first hall has an interesting display on the science of archae­ology, while the other five galleries cover different eras: fishermen, hunters and herders (5000-3000 BC); farmers, traders and craftspeople (3000-1000 BC); Wadi Suq (2000-1300 BC); oasis dwellers (1300-300 BC); and greater Arabia (300 BC-AD 600). Displays include reconstructions of tombs and houses, as well as weapons, pottery, tools, coins and jewellery. The cafe has sandboxes where kids can dig for 'artefacts'.

The Central Market (Blue Souq) is located on the Corniche near the King Faisal Mosque. It consists of two grand halls connected by an overhead bridge. It has the lowest prices and best selection of carpets in the country, as well as dozens of shops selling souvenirs and antiques from Oman, India, Thailand and Iran. The gold-domed Al-Majarrah Souq, on the Gorniche, houses about 50 shops that sell textiles, perfumes and clothes. The Gold Centre, on the corner of Sheikh Zayed and Al-Wahda Rds, is home to about 40 shops selling jewellery, diamonds, gold coins and everything else that glitters. The Fruit & Vegetable Souq, Animal Souq, Plant Souq and Fish Souq are worth a visit if you have time to spare.

HATTA :

An enclave of Dubai Emirate nestled in the Hajar Mountains, Hatta is a popular weekend getaway - so if you want to explore it peacefully avoid going on Friday. Hatta also makes a good overnight stop on a two- or three-day itinerary. It is 105km from Dubai by road, about 20km of which runs through Omani territory. There is no customs check as you cross the border, but remember that if you are driving a rental car your insurancl does not cover accidents in Oman . This mountain town was once an important source of tobacco, as well as a vital staging post on the trade route between Dubai and Oman. Today, Hatta's main drawcards are its relatively cool, humidity-free climate and the dramatic mountain scenery. The magnificent rock pools near Hatta are one of the UAE's highlights. Hatta makes a good base for off-road trips through the mountains. Hatta's main attraction is the HeritageVillage, which is a re-created traditional moun­tain village. In the complex is a restored fort and traditional buildings dedicated to weaponry, local songs and dances, palm-tree products and social life, plus other ex­hibits on facets of the old village society and economics. Most buildings have videos and mannequins to explain their theme. Climb up some stairs to the top of the watchtower for some great views over the valley. There is a functioning falaj (traditional irrigation channel) watering small but lush agricultural plots just below the Heritage Village. The  traditional  handicrafts  building  is across the road from the main complex and features displays on crafts such as weaving, cosmetics, perfumes and traditional dress. The turn-off for the village is   signposted to the left off the main street,  about 3km from the Fort Roundabout and 500m from the bus stop. With your own 4WD you   can bump up the wadi to a dam above Hatta village. The turn-off is just after the mosque near the Heritage Village. This road ssoon deteri­orates into a steep graded track.  Don't try to get a 2WD car up this road; the rental company won't thank you for it. The dam lies 2km up the rugged wadi. Most people come to Hatta to visit the Hatta rock pools , with are about 20km south of Hatta town. They are actu­ally across the border in Oman, but access is from Hatta. This intricately carved mini­ature canyon has water year-round, and it's an amazing experience to swim through these narrow rock corridors and play at the waterfalls Although it is beautiful, the area gets very busy at weekends and unfortunately you will find some litter and graffiti scattered around. You don't need a 4WD to get to the rock pools from Hatta, but it's strongly advised. If you want to continue past the pools and on to Al-Ain we advise you to attempt it only with a 4WD and an experienced driver behind the wheel. To get to the impressive rock pools, turn right at the Fort Roundabout on the edge of town and head into the centre. After driv­ing down this road for 2.7km take the turn-off to the left for the Heritage Village. Then turn left when you get to the T-junction at the mosque, 50m past the entrance to the Heritage Village. Follow this road for 900m as it bends around to the left. At this point take the turn-off onto the tarmac road to the right. This will take you past a row of identical houses, along a stretch riddled with lots of speed bumps. Continue along this road for 6.5km until the tarmac road ends. At this point there is a turn-off to the right onto a graded track (there is a stop sign here as well). Follow the graded track for 6km, passing blue-and-white road signs to the Omani villages of A'Tuwayah, Al-Karbi al-Gharbiyah, Al-Qarbi a'Sharqiyah and Al-Bon. Along this road is some won­derful scenery, particularly the striking layers of folded sedimentary rock on the hillsides. Watch out for oncoming traffic, as it can be a bit dangerous. After the sign to Al-Bon the road continues over a steep hill - the track to the pools' parking area is a sharp left turn at the bottom of the road. The parking area is about 600m away, at the edge of a falaj, and the pools are a short walk from here. If you don't have your own transport, the Hatta Port Hotel offers a 4WD safari to the rock pools. A three-hour trip for six people costs Dh600, including soft drinks and towels. A seven-hour trip for six people costs Dhl400 and includes a picnic lunch.
Diversions: Around Hatta Midway between Dubai and Hatta the highway cuts right through a towering peach-coloured dune system and a 100m--high dune known as Big Red. This is a hugely popular spot for local 4WD fanatics to let down their tyres and tackle the slopes. On weekends, dozens of vehicles crawl up and down the soft sands. On the Hatta side, Al-Badayer Motofs hires out quad bikes for Dh40 for 30 minutes , so you can tear up the dunes on one of these offensively noisy vehicles. Presumably any wildlife here has long since fled. On the Dubai side, Al-Ramool Motors hires out quad bikes for the same price. Both are open from 8am until sunset daily. Assuming you don't get run over by quad bikes and 4WDs, it takes about 20 minutes to walk from the highway to the top of the dunes. There is a huge rug market at the village of Mazeirah , about 12km west of Hatta on the main highway. This is the only large country market apart from the one at Masafi . If you're looking for rugs, it's worth a stop as you can pick up great bargains.

EAST COAST :

The East Coast is one of the most beautiful parts of the UAE. The Hajar Mountains provide a stunning backdrop to the waters of the Gulf of Oman. It's very green here. There are wadis to explore in the mountains and waterholes that are full year-round. The area north of Khor Fakkan is well known for diving and snorkelling, but south of Khor Fakkan the sea is less inviting. The port at Fujairah is the second-busiest bunkering (refuelling) port in the world and at any time there are dozens if not hundreds of ships queued up offshore - the line runs the entire length of the coast! It seems that some ships illegally empty out their holds before they head into the Gulf to pick up another load of oil. The degree of pollution varies according to the currents, but most days you're likely to pick up a sticky sheen if you touch the water. The effects on local fisheries and wildlife can be imagined. The prosperous little city of Fujairah is the capital of the emirate of the same name. There isn't a great deal to see in Fujairah itself, but it makes a good base for exploring the rest of the East Coast. The main business strip is Hamad bin Abdullah Rd, between the Fujairah Trade Centre and the coast. Along this road, just west of the Fujairah Trade Centre, is the Etisalal office the 48-storey Fujairah Tower, banks and, at the intersection with the coast road, the Central Market. The main post office is on Al-Sharqi Rd, just off Hamad bin Abdullah Rd. The old town is best described as spooky. Of interest is the cemetery and a 300-year old (under restoration) which overlooks the ruins of old Fuiairah. There is a shanty settelment here whose residents don't especially like tourists walking around. The Fujairah Museum has exhibits on maritime activities, archaeological finds from around the emirate (such as items from tombs near Qidfa dating from 1500 BC), displays of heritage jewellery and a collection of photographs showing local life in the preoil era. Ain al-Madhab Garden, on the edge of town, is nothing special, but the swimming pools here are clean, cool and segregated into men's and women's sections. There is a small Heritage Village across from the garden, fenced with palm fronds. Here you'll ind a reconstructed coastal desert village, complete with a real cow. The small town of Masafi , an enclave of Ajman Emirate, 35km from Fujairah, is at the junction where the road from Dubai splits into two and heads north to Dibba and south to Fujairah. Known as the location of the Masafi water-bottling factory, the town is also famous for its Friday market. Despite its name, the market is actually open every day of the week and has an enormous range of carpets, plants and souvenirs for sale. Some of the carpets send the kitsch-meter off the scale, such as those featuring Sheikh Zayed and others featuring Lolitaesque girls. You are sure to get a bargain here, but you have to work at it - aim to pay 40% to 50% of the asking price. The traditional fishing village of Kalba is just south of Fujairah and remains true to what life would have been like on the Gulf coast during the early part of the 20th century. Shashas (small fishing boats made from palm fronds) and crayfish baskets line the beach; fishermen can be seen setting out each morning and pulling in their nets each evening. Kalba is part of the Sharjah Emirate. The khor (inlet), just south of town, is part of the Khor Kalba Conservation Reserve and the site of the oldest mangrove forest in Arabia. Bird life is particularly abundant in the reserve, which is the only place in the world that the Khor Kalba white-collared kingfisher is found; there are reported to be 44 pairs of the birds here. It's possible to hire boats (around Dh50 for a couple of hours) from the local fishermen and paddle up the inlets into the mangroves. You'll need a 4WD to get to the ruins of Al-Hayl Castle , set among mountain peaks in Wadi Hayl, 13km from Fujairah. This was once the site of the summer palace of the ruling Al-Sharqi family of Fujairah. The ruins of the palace, complete with freestanding pillars and watchtowers, look stunning against the mountains and the cultivated valley floor is a pleasant place to wander. Coming from Fujairah towards Dubai, the signposted turn-off for Al-Hayl Castle is on the left, about 2km past the main roundabout, on the outskirts of town. Follow the tarmac road for 4km, then turn left towards the quarries. The turn-off is 700m past the first roundabout. Take a right after lkm and drive up the wadi. The paved road runs out after 3km; take the main graded track      straight ahead. The castle lies a bumpy 3 km further on. There's a much rougher route back to Fujairah: returning along the main track, take the left-hand track down into the wadi, about 800m from the fort. This route bounces along the wadi floor down to Hayl village. Once through the there's tarmac all the way back to Fujairah. Allow half a day for a trip to Al-Hayl Castle from Fujairah. One of Sharjah Emirate's enclave, khor Fakkan is the largest town on the East Coast after Fujairah and sits on the prettiest bay in the UAE. While the port has proved to be a roaring success, the development of tourism has been somewhat held back by Sharjah's ban on alcohol. The sweeping Corniche is bounded by the port and fish market at the southern end and the Oceanic Hotel to the north, there is nice beach between. The beach is fronted by a leafy strip of parkland, ideal for strolling . Sharq Island, at the entrance to the bay of Khor Fakkan, is a popular diving spot-contact any of the diving operators listed to arrange a diving excursion. And don't worry, sharq means 'east' in Arabic. If you have your own transport it's worth a drive to Rifaisa Dam , which is in the mountains above the town. This mountain lake is supposed to have a village submerged beneath it, which you can see when the water is clear. It's a very peaceful spot. To get to the dam, turn inland from the main street at the Emarat petrol station, then go left at the T-intersection (there should be a red-and-white radio tower on your left). Turn right onto the graded  track after the mosque but before the bridge. The track divides after 300m or so; stick to the right. Follow this road up the valley for 4.7km to the dam. You'll notice a couple of ruined watchtowers atop hills along the way. The charming fishing village of Bidiya, 8km north of Khor Fakkan, is one of the oldest towns in the Gulf. Archaeological digs have shown that the site of the town has been settled more or less continuously since the 3rd millennium BC. Today it is best known for its mosque, a small structure of stone, mud brick and gypsum, which is still in use and has recently been restored. It is said to have been built around AD 640, although other sources date it to AD 1449, and is the oldest mosque in the UAE. It is built into a low hillside along the main road just north of the village, and on the hillside above and behind it are several restored watchtowers. Just offshore from the Sandy Beach Motel, about 6km north of Bidiya, is Snoopy Island, a popular diving and snorkelling spot. There are stonefish around the island, so wear shoes while paddling. Don't be alarmed by the family of reef sharks here; they're friendly. Access to the hotel's beach and Snoopy Island costs Dh25 per day.

AL-AIN & BURAIMI :

The border between the UAE and Oman wriggles through a collection of interconnected oases; Al-Ain and Buraimi lie within the Buraimi Oasis. In the days before the oil boom, the oasis was a five-day overland journey by camel from Abu Dhabi. Today the trip takes 90 minutes on a tree-lined freeway. In barely 30 years Al-Ain (in Abu Dhabi Emirate on the UAE side of the border) has been transformed from a series of rustic villages into a suburbanised garden city. It's best to make an overnight trip, but if you are really pressed for time you could get there, zip around the sites and get back to Dubai in a day, as long as you get an early start. Once in the oasis, you can cross freely between the UAE and Oman - the official frontier post to enter Oman is 50km east of Buraimi at Wadi al-Jizzi. UAE currency is accepted in Buraimi at a standard rate (at the time of writing) of OR1 to Dh9.55.
One of Al-Ain's main attractions during summer is its dry air, which is a welcome change from the humidity of the coast. The temperate climate has ensured that many sheikhs from around the Emirates have their summer palaces here. The cool and quiet date-palm oases located all over town are pleasant to wander through at any time of the year.  Distances in both Al-Ain and Buraimi are large, but taxis are abundant and cheap. It's fairly easy to find most of the things worth seeing in Al-Ain by following the big, purple tourist signs. Almost everyone travels by taxi in Al-Ain as they are so cheap: most trips around the centre will only cost you Dh3. It's better to use the gold-and-white Al-Ain taxis rather than the orange-and-white Buraimi ones, which don't have meters. The Eastern Fort & Al-Ain Museum are in the same compound, southeast of the overpass near the Coffeepot Roundabout in the heart of town. This is one of the best museums in the country and is a highlight of a visit to Al-Ain. The fort was the birthplace of the UAE's president, Sheikh Zayed. As you enter the museum, take a look at the majlis and be sura to see the display of photographs of Al-Ain in the 1960s - it's unrecognisable. Other exhibits cover traditional education, flora, fauna, weapons and Bedouin life. A large portion of the museum is dedicated to the archaeology of the area. You can see the entrance to the livestock souq from the museum and fort parking lot. The souq, which sells everything from Brahman cows to Persian cats, attracts people from all over the eastern UAE and northern Oman. Don't be surprised if you see an Emirati loading goats into the back seat of a late-model Mercedes. The souq is at its busiest before 9am, when trading is heaviest, but remember to ask before you take any photos. The beautifully restored Jahili Fort & Park is set inside a walled park, next to the public gardens and near the Al-Ain Rotana Hotel. Built in 1898 the fort is a handsome piece of traditional architecture; look out for the main corner tower, which is graced with three concentric rings of serrated battle ments. The fort itself is not open to visitors, but you can wander around the pleasanl gardens. Another thoroughly restored fort, the Al Khandaq Fort in Buraimi is said to be about 400 years old. Be sure to climb one of the battlements for a view of the surrounding oasis. Unusually for an Omani fort, there are both inner and outer defence walls. Once you get into the courtyard head di-rectly across it and slightly to the left to reach a large, well-restored room. This was the majlis, where the fort's commander would have conducted his official business.. The large enclosed yard just east of the fort is Buraimi's Eid prayer ground, where people gather to pray during the holidays marking the end of Ramadan and the end of the pilgrimage season. The Buraimi Souq is housed in the large brown building at the Horse Roundabout and sells fruit, vegetables, meat and household goods. The enclosed (concrete) part of the souq houses a few shops that sell Omani silver jewellery and khanjars, the ornate daggers worn by many Omani and some Emirati men , although the selection is not great. The Hili Gardens & Archaeological Park, about 8km north of the centre of Al-Ain, off the Dubai road, consists of a public park and archaeological site. The main attraction is the Round Structure, a building dating from the 3rd millennium BC. It has two porthole en­trances and is decorated with relief carvings of animals and people. Although it's re­ferred to as a tomb locally, it may not have ever been one at all: no bones were ever found here, just remnants of pottery, and there are suggestions that it may have been a temple. Excavations on a tomb (dating to somewhere between 2300 and 2000 BC), adjoining the older Round Structure, have uncovered more than 250 skeletons.