Whatever you want, Bali will provide. For
beaches, surfing, shopping and partying, the only place to be is
Kuta, or, for the ultimate in a beach resort away from the
maddening crowds, be pampered in Sanur. To enjoy a slower place
and be in the heart of the arts in Bali, head for Ubud. For a
low-budget, low-hassle beach vacation with other travellers
around, head north to Lovina. Then delve deeper into the Bali
experience, uncover a new layer as you dive along the glorious
east coast or visit the national parks in the north-west.
Wherever you are, though, sit by the gently lapping waves as the
sun turns into shades of orange and purple you never thought
existed and then gives way to a star-studded night sky. Take
another sip of your margarita, close your eyes and relax —
you've arrived.
۞
Kuta - The First Layer: With
hundreds of kilometers of coastline, 1 you are never more than
40 km from the beach — all you have to do is to pick a direction
and head out. The most popular beaches with maximum hotels,
cafes, entertainment and shopping are here in the far south of
the island, at Kuta.
۞
Kuta, Legian and Seminyk:
Kuta is one version of what Bali wants be. It's all party, all
beach, all shopping, all the time. Many avoid Kuta because of
all its tourist trappings, but it is set up for a hedonistic
vacationing experience. The streets are narrow and almost every
available space is set up for eating, living or shopping. But
Kuta still retains its traditions — during major festivals like
Nyepi, the Balinese New Year, colourful j and elaborate
ceremonies take place primarily on the beaches with attendant!
pomp and splendour.
Kuta is confusing at first since few streets have signs. A good
way to orient yourself is to remember that the beach runs along
the west side. Most of the action is in and around Kuta Beach,
but to get away from things a little and for more upscale
restaurants and hotels, Legian and Seminyak are the places to
be. In Kuta, JI Legian is a major shopping and nightlife street
that runs parallel to the beach with small lanes that connect
you to shopping and accommodations like Poppies Gang 1 and 2
(gang means small alley or lane).
Kuta, Legian and Seminyak all have gorgeous white-sand beaches,
endless horizons and blue-green water. Kuta Beach is easily the
most visited and has the most amenities on it, in addition to
being a centre for water sports, surfing and night parties.
Cheap massages, hair braiding, tattooes, manicures and pedicures
— it's all offered right on the sand. This has its problems. It
is not possible to take a single walk down Kuta Beach without at
least three-people offering a massage, or souvenirs. The beach
at Legian is similar but usually sees less people, though not by
much.. Something sad but now a tourist attraction is the Bali
Memorial on JI Legian to the people, mostly Australian, who died
in the 2002 bombings. People just come to spend a moment of
silence.
۞
Kuta Thrills: A step up on
the adrenaline chart are Kuta's four bungee-jumping towers.
Checkk at A.J. Hackett on JI Arjuna, Legian, for packages. If
bungee jumping has to be even scarier than the Real McCoy, it
would have to be so in Bali. The Bali Slingshot is a scarifying
ride, only for the bravest of the brave. You sit in a round,
open capsule which is propelled 50 meters Into the air in just
two seconds by two gigantic bungee cords stretched over two
towers. The capsule then spins at this height, before
decelerating into a series of soft bounces and landing on its
pad. The guys who run it describe the rush as a "multiple
slingshot orgasm". Not for those prone to throwing up.
۞
Denpasar: This capital city
of Bali, en route to Sanui on the east coast from Kuta, is the
place most people arrive in only to catch a bemo dine at the
warungs or visit the tourist office to get info on the rest of
Bali. While here, visit the beautiful Pura Jagatnatha temple.
There is a constant flow of Balinese coming to the temple with
offerings of bunga jepun (frangipani) for the Supreme God, Sang
Hyang Widi Wasa and Ciwa (cognate witn shiva), the One God
of Balinese Hinduism. The architecture is typical Balinese — the
walls are covered with carvings depicting scenes from the
Ramayana and Mahabharata. Here also is the World Turtle (kurma)
familiar to Hindus, yet its supporting cast comes in the shape
of a brace of dragons, typical of Balinese temple design and
reminiscent of the serpent from the churning of the ocean Hindu
myth of origin. Both the full moon and new moon nights are
celebrated at the temple with wayang puppet shows.
۞
Tips: Dress appropriately,
preferably wear a sarong. Don't assume that you can take photos
in any temple. Always check the temple's regulations first.
Denpasar's wonderful Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali showcases Balinese art
and history, and indeed was established for the purpose of
furthering an understanding of Bali. There are four pavilions,
the most interesting being the central pavilion since it holds
ritual objects and clothing from Bali's version of Hinduism,
which are very distinct from Indian practices and rituals. A
good place to discover the connections too.
Next to the main structure, complete with the architectural
icons of bale agung (pavilion), candi bentar (split gateway, as
typical in Hindu temples) and kulkul (traditional 'slit-gong'
comprising a hollowed log) stands a reproduction of the
Singaraja Palace (the original gracing the island's north
coast). This makes for a classic combination of pura (temple)
and pun (palace) placed within a series of interlacing
courtyards. With the porches of the main building reminiscent of
the Karang-asem palaces of East Bali with a window-less edifice
in the western Tabanan style, the whole is an excellent
encapsulation of Bali's architectural heritage.
Location: On JI Letkol Wisnu, opposite Puputan Sq, near
Denpasar's tourist office.
۞
Getting Around
Bus:Perama is the cheapest bus operator on Bali, with buses that run between
Kuta, Ubud, Denpasar, Lovina and Sanur. Detailed service
schedules are available at most hotels and at the Perama offices
in different cities.
Shuttle Bus:
Most hotels and guest houses have tourist shuttle buses,
especially in South Bali, that are quite convenient and easy to
find. On Kuta, just walk along JI Legian, and you'll see over a
dozen signs for shuttle services. The most useful routes are
Kuta Legian-Sanur-Ubud and Kuta-Ubud Lovina. Their prices are
the same as bemos, or minibuses.
Bemo:
These minibuses are the best way to get from place to place.
Denpasar is the hub for all connections in South Bali, mid has
four main bemo stations Tegal (on JI G Willis and JI Imam Bonjol),
Kereneng (off JI Hayam Wuruk), Batubulan (6 km outside the city
in Batubulan), and Ubung (on JI Cokroaminoto).
Intra-City Transport:
Public bemos run intra-city routes as well — look for the
destinations on the windshield and hop on. They stop running
after 9 pm in South Bali, and after 6 pm in the north.
Taxis:
Metered taxis in Denpasar, Kuta, and Ubud roam the streets,
though most people simply walk.
Mobike Taxis:
There are always locals on motorbikes who are happy to drive you
around for a few thousand rupiah. Don't worry, they'll find you.
۞
Arrange An Adventure In Sanur
A short way
from Denpasar is Sanur Beach on the south-east coast, a quieter
version of Kuta. The 5-km long beach has more than enough space
for everyone, and many head to Sanur to escape Kuta's constant
party crowds. Sanur also has many mid-range hotels, and slightly
cheaper dining and shopping compared to Kuta. But that may also
be because Sanur's beach, with its ugly concrete pylons keeping
the ocean out, is not a patch on Kuta's. Sanur's greatest allure
is for divers, home to many of Bali's best dive shops.
۞
Along Bukit Badung
Nusa Dua Beach covers the east coast of the Bukit Badung peninsula, south-east of the airport. The twin Tanjung Benoa Beach juts north out of the peninsula into Benoa Harbour. As beaches go, these two are among the least interesting in Bali, if only because they resemble most other internationally famous beaches like Sydney's Bondi and Goa's Calangute, with their luxury resorts and elegant cafes. There is none of the festive air of Kuta, few hawkers and little activity. Both could be anywhere in the world, but you are here to experience Bali. You must come down to Bukit Badung, however, to dine at the fresh seafood open-air barbecues on Jimbaran Beach, immediately south of the airport on the west coast of the peninsula. You'll also travel further south of Jimbaran to catch the barong dance performances at the majestic cliff-top temple of Uluwaru.
۞
UBUD - THE SECOND LAYER
North of Kuta and Denpasar is Ubud, the cultural capital of Bali. Girls in sarongs outside wooden temples, traditional Balinese art for sale, piles of rambutan, durian and salak (snakefruit) in the busy fresh markets, stonework Ganeshas in hotel foyers — this is the atmosphere of Ubud. The modern Balinese art movement started in Ubud and there are numerous galleries and museums that attest to the fact. It is also surrounded by lush countryside and there are some amazing walks to be had in the paddy fields that intersect with deep gorges and forest. The weather is cooler and the air cleaner since it is close to the mountains, and day trips can be taken to see the surrounding villages and natural beauty around Ubud Compared to Kuta, Ubud also has much better food and hotels for all budgets.
Ubud is pretty spread out since it now encompasses many of the smaller municipalities in the area. But everything you need is in and around JI Monkey Forest, which runs north from the Monkey Forest Sanctuary all the way up to JI Raya.
Buy lotus and frangipani (champa) flowers wrapped in banana leaves-at its pasars(bazars) to offer at one of the numerous shrines dotting the town. The Pura Taman Naraswati Temple, the temple of arts, Is the place to go for the peace Hindus get from gazing at the blooming lotus.
۞
Arts and Antiquities
There seems to be a gallery at every street corner in Ubud, and browsing through them is a day well spent. Some of the better known ones are the Neka Art Gallery on JI Raya, the Agung Rai Gallery on JI Peliatan and the Seniwati Gallery of art by Women, north of JI Raya at JI Sriwedari.
۞
Ubud's Museums
There's also a choice of museums across the area to explore for a deeper, timeless look at the indigenous culture. The Blanco Renaissance Museum is the home of the eccentric Spanish painter Antonio Blanco, a celebrated Ubud artist originally from Spain, who specialised in erotic art and illustrated poetry. Blanco married the celebrated Balinese dancer Ni Ronji and set up home on this estate at the confluence of two sacred rivers, granted to him by the king of Ubud. Stroll around the grounds of this three-storeyed monument that the artist envisaged as representative of the Balinese notion of the three levels where gods, humans and demons reside. The museum is guarded by a pair of stone dragons, and the estate includes an amphitheatre, the family temple, a gift shop and a cafe.
The Museum Puri Lukisan (Museum of Fine Arts), established in 1956, is a realisation of the art conservation efforts of Dutch painter Rudolf Bonnet and a former prince of Ubud. It exhibits paintings by early Ubud artists and the contemporary Community of Artists who evolved their own Pengosekan style. It also has traditional-style paintings, such as wayang (puppet-style) paintings, rep¬resentative of the relief work on early temples. The Art and Cultural Workshop (dwibhumi.com) is in the back of the museum and offers courses ranging from Balinese art and wood-carving to traditional singing and Balinese dance.
۞
LEMBONGAN ISLAND
Just off the south-east coast of Bali across the Badung Strait are the two islands of Nusa Penida and the tinier Nusa Lembongan. Both are popular amongst divers for some of the sites richest in marine life that you can visit from Bali. But Lembongan in particular is also a serene variant to Bali if you want peace. There are fishing villages to explore, great seafood on the beach, superb snorkelling, diving and fishing, shopping stalls — all that's great in Bali, at a lesser pace and price.
Many operators offer overnight packages to Lembongan and Penida from Bali. These include transport and stay.
۞
Diving Into The Deep End
۞Diving and snorkeling: Bali has hundreds of operators offering dives at some of the most brilliant sites in Asia. Most offer courses with PADI-certified instructors. Short for Professional Association of Diving Instructors, PADI is an international regulatory agency of diving regulators and instruction courses. For those looking for a one-time experience, centers also offer 'day dives'. They'll take you out on a boat to a dive site, provide meals, full diving equipment and instruction, and send someone underwater with you to assure your safety. It's an unforgettable experience to float meters below the water amidst some stunning coral reefs, schools of brightly colored fish and other stars of the marine universe.
۞
Best sites in Bali
Kuta and Lovina may have most of the operators, but they all head for the east coast which is the best option for first-time dives in Bali.
Tulamben Bay off the north-east coast is the most popular site on the island, and some say in all of Indonesia, as it offers a variety of dive experiences which is rare for one spot. This is chiefly thanks to the huge wreck of the USS Liberty, which sank off these waters during WWII. Hundreds of species of fish inhabit its decaying hull. Many more fish and a huge variety of sponge can be inspected from the famed Tulamben Drop-off nearby. Tulamben also offers the best coral diving at Jemeluk, a short drive away. Batu Kelebit, just south of Tulamben, and the Kubu Reef, just north of Tulamben, also offer rich pickings of coral and marine life.
The waters around Menjangan Island are considered the best on the island for snorkelling and also hold an array of dive experiences from sponges and fish to shipwrecks in deep waters. This is because the waters between Menjangan and Bali are shallow with lots of marine life on display. The northern waters off the island are much deeper, holding Bali's oldest shipwreck, the Anker.
Whale sharks and manta rays also inha¬bit the northern waters. All the waters around Menjanagn are part of a marine park, so diving is regulated here. This means the picking of coral for souvenirs is punishable with a fine or worse. Other picks on the east coast are off Padangbai and Amed, particularly the Amed Walls and Amed Coral Garden.
The village of Kaliasem in Lovina is the best for snorkelling — the boat trip, inclusive of equipment costs some money. The shallow sites off Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan are populated by manta rays. Also ask operators for options elsewhere in Indonesia, ex-Bali, particularly for dive trips off Komodo, Lombok. the Gilis and Flores islands.
۞
Surfing And Boogeying
The beaches of Kuta are home to the best water sports. Topping the list is surfing or boogie boarding — riding smaller waves lying flat on a square-shaped board. You can rent boards and other equipment, and get lessons at the numerous shops along Kuta Beach. The shops will also guide you to the best spots to surf, usually one of four — Kuta Beach, Legian Beach, Airport Lefts or Kuta Reef.
۞
KUTA Scuba Duba Doo Bali Diving Center
JI Legian Klod 367; Kuta, arranges dives off Tulamben Bay, Padangbai, Nusa Dua, Menjangan Island, Penida and Lembongan islands.
۞
AMED Eco-Dive
(Jemeluk Beach, Amed, Abang) offers dive safaris off Menjangan
and off their own beach in Amed, besides Nusa Penida. If you
have a bit of time, take Happy Dolphin Divers (Lumba-Lumba
Bahagia) offers to the legendary Komodo National Park, Lombok
and Flores islands. The reputable Joe's Diving Bali has been
operating off the coast of Tulamben for 35 years.
Padangbai Water
Worx Dive Centre (JI Silayukti, Padangbai, Karangasem) is near
some best dive sites in south-east Bali. They offer PADI courses
at many sites from the coral-studded Kubu Reef north of Tulamben
Bay to the shallow sites off Nusa Penida.
Location: JI Raya Ubud, 300 m from Ubud Palace, Timings 8 am-4 pm daily, except Balinese holidays such as Nyepi (New Year’s Day).
Not be confused with the Neka Art Gallery in town, the Neka Art
Museum is run by Suteja Neka, son of the feted sculptor I Wayan
Neka and a collector of art. He opened it up to the public in
1976. It has an eclectic collection that is broadly
representative of the different art movements of Bali.
The museum is spread across several pavilions, including the
Lempad Pavilion, dedicated to Gusti Nyoman Lempad, the famous
Balinese artist. The minute and detailed execution in the
traditional paintings depicts scenes from the Hindu scriptures
and epics. Also of interest is the East-West Annexe,
featuring foreign artists, and the Photography
Archive Centre, which has black-and-white photos of Bali in the
19,'M)s and '40s. Among the more stunning displays are life-size
Balinese shrines covered with gilt.
Location: JI Raya Campuhan Connections a 20-min walk
down JI Monkey hires! Inwards Kelki, north-west of Ubud; or take
bemo.
Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) is a museum, gallery and cultural
centre all rolled Into one, Him- arc dance performances here on
Saturday and Sundays.
Artwork by local artists is up for sale and there are different
styles of Indonesian painting in its permanent collection, which
features works from all over Indonesia, including the Javanese
master Saleh Svarif Bustaman, as well as works by the likes of
Bonnet, Lempad and Walter Spies. You'll also see diverse modern
media — photos, installation art and textiles.
Location:
JI Pengosekan, Ubud
۞
Monkey See, Monkey Do
Just south of Ubud is a forest full of Balinese macaques — grannies, newboms, romoes, the whole massive family. This is no zoo with cuddlies to gawk at. Walking along the paved pathways through the thick forests, the monkeys aren't just up in the trees. They're scratching their armpits on the path right alongside you. Hundreds of them share the path tourists walk along in Ubud's Monkey Forest. They've even taken over the moss-covered temple, the Pura Bukit Sari, a perfect spot for souvenir pictures with some monkeys in the backdrop. If you're having Vrindavanesque fears, worry not. You can get as close to monkeys here as you like — so long as you don't try to pet them. They are used to close human contact as long as you keep an arm's length distance. Lit up at night, the temple is stunning. Fire and kecak dances take place in front of the temple.
۞
Goa Jagah
The 'Elephant Caves' are a popular tourist spot just outside Ubud. The walk from Ubud is pleasant until you hit the row of souvenir shops and the huge car park near the caves, which quite ruin the atmosphere. The origin of the caves is unknown, but they're usually associated with the Majapahit Empire, and were found by Dutch archaeologists in 1923. However, more recent excavations suggest the structures here may date as far back as the
11th century, and there is considerable evidence of a Buddhist beginning — importantly, this was the period when the assimilation of Hinduism in Java and Bali led to the rise of a Ciwa-Buddha cult.
The highlight of the cave is the ornately carved entrance which leads to an inner chamber where you can still see the remnants of a lingam and yoni. There are bathing pools in the courtyard that are in use and can be fun (dress modestly — this is, after all, a religious site of sorts).
Location: 2 km south of Ubud, along Monkey Forest Rd Connection It's a 20-min walk, or catch a bemo heading to Bedulu.
۞
View Balinese dances in Ubud
Balinese dances share several similarities with Indian forms,
and each is an intricate and elaborate ritual. From the stunning
costumes to the precise hand movements, the wonderfully
theatrical stories to the enthusiasm of the Balinese audience,
attending a Balinese dance performance is a must for every
visitor. One of the most popular dances to see in Bali is the
Kecak, based on the Ramayana. Another very popular dance is the
Barong and Rangda, an ancient battle between good (barong) and
evil (rangda). The barong is characterised by a creature that is
half dog and half lion, moved along by two men like a pantomime
horse. The rangda is a witch, dressed up as ugly as can be, with
human entrails around her neck, bulging eyes, a big lolling
tongue and fangs that'll give you nightmares. The show ends with
a bang as a chicken is sacrificed to appease and banish the evil
spirits. Legong is one of the most graceful and beautiful of
Balinese dances. It is the only Balinese dance that is performed
strictly by young women between the age of 8 and 13.
Many of these dances are performed every night at one of many
locations in Ubud, including at the Puri Saren Agung 'Ubud
Palace' on JI Raya, the Padang Tegal Dance Stage, which is an
'art village' at the intersection of JI Raya and JI Hanoman; the
ARMA open stage, Pura Dalem Temple, Monkey Forest and Ubud Water
Palace. Unofficial ticket sellers roam JI Monkey Forest, but
it's better to buy tickets from the Ubud Tourist Office (JI Raya
Ubud); they'll also have a schedule of performances.
۞
Elephant Safari Park
At this park in Taro, near Ubud, you and the kids can ride elephants through the forested park, feed them, watch them bathe and get your photo taken with them. The park has an elephant arena where the tuskers display their painting skills (pretty amazing since elephants are
color-blind), an elephant museum which features a 15,000-year-old mammoth elephant skeleton, a snack bar and restaurant — so kids can spend a whole blissful day out here. You can also contact Bali Adventure Tours for park tours. They
organize an incredible range of adventure activities in Bali, from tandem paragliding to river kayaking and white-water rafting.
۞
Excursions from Ubud
The Gunung Kawi complex of pavilions and rock-cut shrines was carved into the hills north of Ubud sometime in the 11th century. You have to walk across a small river to approach the complex, which is surrounded by terraced rice paddies. Visit the town of Mengwi for its former royal temple, the Pura Taman Ayun. This 17th century chapel served the Mengwi royals who ruled till the late 1800s. Today, it's darkened by age but is still beautiful.
۞
LOVINA — THE THIRD LAYER
For seclusion, however, the place to be is Lovina in North Bali
where there are stunning black sand beaches, formed from the
black lava that rolled down Bali's volcanoes over the centuries.
Lovina's 8-km stretch is actually made up of a string of fishing
villages that have now become a beach resort. Permaron, Tukad,
Mungga, Anturan, Kalibukbuk, Kaliasem and Temukus are all now
headed under the one name of Lovina. The most popular of these
is Kalibukbuk, and the tourist office, police station, banks,
Internet and phones are all in that area. Rustic Bali comes
right up to the seashore at Kalibukbuk Beach, cut by several
tiny rivers meeting the sea.
Lovina is set up a lot like Kuta. The beach is on one side with
side streets and then the major street of JI Raya Lovina, which
has most things like phones, Internet and shopping. There are
bemos here to get you around. Lovina also makes an excellent
base for those who want to explore Bali further west and into
the mountains. The minute you land in Lovina, everyone will tell
you that you must go on a dolphin-watching tour. Boats head out
to sea from Lovina Beach at dawn, hoping to catch a glimpse of
schools of dolphins swimming, jumping and playing in the sea.
Boat captains sit by their boats during the day and you can
approach anyone or ask your hotel owner to recommend one.
۞
Waterfalls and springs near Lovina
Five kilometers west of Kalibukbuk is Air Terjun Singsing —
daybreak waterfalls that aren't huge, but quite beautiful. There
is a freshwater pool underneath where you can swim in true
Bollywood style. Farther uphill is Singsing Dua, another
waterfall with a mud bath, bathing in which is reputed to be
good for your skin. Also visit the famous Gitigit Falls. Air
Panas Banjar are the hot springs that Lovina is famous for. The
area is lush and there are three pools that are fed by hot
flowing water. The first pool has eight fierce looking statues
of nagas, pouring water directly from the spring. There are
restaurants and some hotels for those who want to stay
overnight. The best time to go is morning or evening, since
afternoons tend to be hot.
۞
Candi Dasa and Goa Lawah
The beautiful lagoon of Candi Dasa takes on a purple sheen at sunset. The beach is lined with jukungs and outriggers. At nearby
Padabgbai the waters are bluer than a Kingfisher's wings. Vivid boats line the harbour
of fishing village which you'll visit to catch a launch to Lombok and the Gilis. Just like in India, the fishermen paint eyes on the marlin-headed prows of the boats to help the boat 'see' and ward off the evil eye. Ask any of the boatmen to take you for a tour of the seaweed farms just off the coast. It is difficult to remain credulous at the stunning sight of the seaweed beds, which lie on the ocean floor, their rich shades of green visible through the clear water.
The Pura Goa Lawah temple, southwest of Candi Dasa, has to be
one of the most unique temples in all of Hinduism and in the
world. The central shrine is a cave filled with thousands upon
thousands of bats. The scent of hundreds of incense sticks adds
to the ethereal atmosphere at this crowded temple. A row of mini
shrines marks the entrance to the actual cave.
۞
Gunung Batur and Kintamani
Gunung Batur is Bali's very own active volcano. Set in North
Bali, an 11-km road circles the rim of the crater, starting at
the village of Toya Bungkah. The highest point is 7,063 ft above
sea level, and there are some amazing views at dawn when the sun
rises over the crater and Danau Batur, the lake at the bottom of
the crater. The crater rim is only reachable by car, and the
best way to see it is to hire one at Lovina. Come here early
morning to experience the serenity of the Pura Ulun Danau Batur
temple by the mist-wreathed lake, the shore lined with humble
offerings even at that early hour. One of the villages along the
rim is Kintamani, known for its morning market that's held every
three days. It's wonderfully colourful, and not touristy.
Bargain like crazy for small trinkets, shoes, clothes and
curios.
۞
Pura Besakih and Mount Agung
Pura Besakih is Bali's most important temple, perched on the
slopes of the sacred Mount Agung. For salvation and unmatched
views, it's well worth the climb up the many stone steps to the
complex of 30 temples spread over seven terraces. Partially
damaged in the 1963 eruption of Mt Agung, Pura Besakih has been
carefully restored, for this is the temple the Balinese believe,
through which the gods will enter Bali when they descend to
earth. Every village and paddy field has a small shrine or
temple, but Bali has nine main directional temples at
significant compass points on the island, and Pura Besakih at
the centre, is the most sacred. Pura Goa Lawah, Pura Tanah Lot
and Pura Uluwatu are also among the nine. Another directional
temple is Pura Lempuyang near Tirta Gangga at the far east of
the island. It will take you at least an hour to climb the 1,700
steps to the top of Pura Lempuyang, but you will be rewarded by
a breeze and stunning views of the villages and beaches of the
eastern coast.
۞
Taman Burung Bali Bird Park
If you've travelled to Bali with kids, you must not deprive them
of the stunning sight of the world's largest collection of birds
of paradise of many different Indonesian varieties, on display
at the Taman Barung Bali Bird Park. The Bali Starling andIrian
jaya's Lesser Bird of Paradise are the two famous amongst the
birds here. The kids will also see the examples of the legendary
Komodo Dragon here, brought to Bali via Jakarta after capture in
the only place they are found on Earth, Indonesia's Komodo
Island. These famous reptiles have a fearsome reputation thanks
to their gigantic size and swiftness and attack. This is
surprising considering the dragons don't really run. Their
secret is somehow hiding their great bulk and staying motionless
till their prey passes near enough to grab. No other reptile
species on earth has been observed to attack with as much
precision as these dragons. In the bird park however you and
your kids are quite safe with them, apart from the fact that
their favorite cuts and pork and venison. You will also see that
other fearsome reptile, the crocodile, over here.
Location: JI Serma Cok Bgurah Gambhir, Singapadu, Batubulan.
۞
ENTERTAINMENT/ NIGHTLIFE
The best nightlife in Bali has to do with starry skies and
barefoot walks by the sea. It's free, it's magical, and you can
find it anywhere on the island. The other nightlife on Bali is
boisterous, sometimes obnoxious, always lots of fun, and centred
in Kuta. There are small bars with cheap beer, and ultra trendy
clubs with bouncers at the door, and they're all open till 4 am.
Warning You're sure to be approached with offers for drugs and
sex. Know that the Balinese police are intolerant of tourists
who take anti-prostitution and drug laws lightly. No matter what
touts say, sex work is not legal on the island.
۞
In Kuta
JI Legian is full of bars that have cheap drinks and happy hour
specials, with all kinds of music and entertainment on display.
There are so many here, just walk along the street and see which
vibe takes your fancy. Tor something more upscale in the
neighborhood, try the Hard Rock Cafe, on JI Panrai Kuta, right
on the beach. The cafe serves as a live concert venue where you
groove to the beats of the likes of Shooglenifty, the Moluccas
and the Bad Boys Batucada. Other beachfront bars include Deja Vu
(JI Arjuna 7, Legian), with Us minimalist decor, live music and
good liquor (grey goose vodka, Bintang beer). In Legian, drop by
at either Cafe Luna or Cafe Hulu (on JI Sahadewa) which have
amazing drag shows almost every night.
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In Ubud
Putra Bar has live music ranging from reggae to rock every
night. Magic Bar also has live music and great atmosphere. Both
are on JI Monkey Forest. Jazz Cafe on JI Tebesaya has live music
and jam sessions on different nights and Exile Bar has great
music on Saturday nights only. Funky Monkey, also on JI Monkey
Forest, is a cool cocktail bar open till the early hours, where
a live DJ spins the latest dance music.
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In Lovina
JI Binaria is where all the action is. Most places play live
music. Sweet Lovina still plays only Bob Marley, U2, the Rolling
Stones, UB40, and the like. Poco Evolutions tends to be always
busy since the locals collect there for the tourists and the
tourists for the locals! The big pull are the drag shows that it
has sometimes. Planet Lovina, which is a little more upscale,
occasionally has a live DJ.
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SHOPPING
Rainsticks and djembe drums from Africa. Cheap Balinese silver
jewellery. Aromatic Kopi Bali. Perfectly carved Javanese garudas.
A thousand sarongs and coconut shell sarong ties. You can get
everything you yearn for in Bali. Pack nothing but essentials
when you come, because you're going to taking back a lot more.
There is no mall culture in Bali, and the shopping experience
consists of walks through frantic street markets, art galleries
and street side stores and boutiques — It's outdoors, it's fun,
and the variety Is amazing. The experience ranges from high-end
boutiques in Legian to hawkers and ladies carrying hundreds of
sarongs walking up and down the beach looking for customers. For
art, head to Ubud. For cloth, curios and tourist souvenirs, Kuta
is your best bet. Traditional Balinese clothing and some
excellent tailors are in Denpasar.
Bargain hard everywhere if you want to be taken seriously.
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Ubud
The big shopping in Ubud is for art. Top picks are gold filigree
Balinese masks worn by characters in the Mahabharata, light
craft, stone figurines, semi and precious jewellery, sarongs and
woodcraft. A good option is Pasar Sent, on the northern end of
Monkey Forest Rd near Jl Raya, where you can buy arts, crafts,
pottery, and some really nice tea-sets. Stores and boutiques
line Monkey Forest Rd. Check out Le Chat, which houses the
clothes and jewellery collection of a local designer with rather
eclectic tastes, and Ahimsa, which has some pretty cool bags.
Small stores with very trendy jewellery line JI Dewi Sita.
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Denpasar
Head straight to JI Sumatra, where brightly coloured fabric and
sarongs catch your eye in every direction, and tailors appear
miraculously the minute you buy any length of cloth. Locals also
rave about Kampung Arab (on Jl Sulawesi), where gold is sold by
the ounce and designed pieces can be made to order. To just
browse, walk around and mix with locals doing their everyday
shopping. Try the Pasar Kumbasari (on Jl Gajah Mada), which has
handicrafts, fabrics and costumes decorated with gold threads.
Like any good Indonesian city, Denpasar has its bird market,
Pasar Burung (on Jl Veteran), complete with squawking birds,
small animals and gaudy, decorated cages.
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Kuta
Clothes, accessories, Balinese art and other curios are all
available in Kuta, and at every kind of price. For high-brow
shopping, try Kuta Square, the European-style shopping plaza
with big-name stores, prices quoted in dollars, delectable
goods, and hordes of people that just add to the adrenaline
rush. Jl Legian is the place for cheaper clothes, daily-use
sarongs and batik clothing, souvenirs, small art pieces, and
gifts. Recommended is Cinderella 01 Legian No. 120) for little
purses, soaps, incense and other cute little things. Off Jl
Legian, Poppies Gang I is the place for good cheap beachwear
like sarongs, skirts, tops and the most adorable kids' clothes.
A great place for jewellery is Ananas (22, Poppies Gang I), a
store with select, well-designed necklaces, earrings, etc, that
are reasonably priced. Bali Crochet, also on Poppies Gang I, is
another place to check out since they give good deals and the
owner is incredibly friendly and loves to talk and talk about
India.
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Sukawati
Stop by at the Sukawati Market near Celuk in Gianyar, which
actually boasts of three markets — one for clothes and art,
another for jewellery and a fresh market. Great halls have shelf
upon shelf of pastel T-shirts, floral motifs, low neck tops,
beautiful ceremonial Balinese headdresses, kites, baskets and
colorful sarongs, all costing next to nothing. Save your gift
shopping for here if you want prices nearly half those at Kuta,
depending on your bargaining ability.