Mandawa came into being in 1756, when Nawal Singh built the fort that has now been turned into the hotel called Castle Mandawa. But it became a full-fleged town only after Nawal Singh’s two grandsons decided to make it their home at the close of the 18th century.Like Nawalgarh Mandawa too remained undivided, thus luring many merchant to set up shop here. In particular, the murals of Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli are expectional, especially in the variety of their themes.It is quite a mixed basket – scenes from the life of the background; a curlyheaded Greek ‘portrait’; a woman giving birth; mirror images of a tiger and a hoese; a bird tending her eggs; a couple making out in a train compartment and another on a chair.

It’s difficult to say if this ‘eroticims’ was at the owner’s request or an artist’s rebellion an oppressive society. Whatever the reson these bold strokes provided a refresing counterpoint to the sometimes tediously ubiquitous portrayals – gods, royals and colonialists.

The Bansidhar Nevatia Haveli shows the Wright brother’s maiden flight and a European making a telephone call – presumably reproduced from magazines. A rather nationalistic tug-of-war between a strongman called prof Ramamurti and a motorcar drivan by an Englishman is also portrayed in a painting.
The baithak or sitting room of the sneh Ram Ladia Haveli has a rather amateurish though amusing group portrait of rulers of various princely states. On the other hand , consider the merchant who owened the haveli. These were done by a man called Babu Lal who in a rare exception, signed his works.

Bad imitations of European artworks can be seen at Murmuria Haveli. Chck out the artist’s amusing attempt to set Indian themes against a European background – Krishna shepherding cows in a typically English countryside, for instance. The double Goenka Havelihas amusing erotica painted on the outer left wall such as a mélange a trios, a woman having sex with two men, and Krishna making love to a gopi. Access to this wall is through a narrow passage from inside the haveli.

If start getting ‘muralitis’ from craning up to see the details, especially the bits of the Kama Sutra (which are often tucked away in obscure corners), consider spending some tranquilmoments atop one of the bastions of Castle Mandawa. The view from this vantage point, particularly during sunrise or sunset, is most therapeutic.