Rajasthan - Getting Around

Air tickets: All the major airlines are connected to the central reservation system and there are local travel agents who will book your tickets for a fee if you don't want to spend pre­cious time waiting in a queue. Remember that tickets are in great demand in the peak season on some sectors particularly between Rajasthan and Delhi (eg Udaipur- Delhi) so it is essential to get them months ahead. Some travellers have found it easier to book their return flight via Mumbai instead of Delhi. If you are able to pre-plan your trip, it is even possible to ask if the internal flights can be booked at the time you buy your international air ticket at home throughan agent (eg Trailfinders, SD Enterprises, London) or direct (eg Jet Airways).

Payment: Foreign passport holders buying air tickets in India must pay the 'US dollar rate' (higher than published Rupee rates) and pay in foreign exchange (major credit cards, travel­lers' cheques accepted), or in rupees against an encashment certificate which will be endorsed accordingly. There is very little difference in prices quoted by competing airlines.

Delays: Be prepared for delays, especially in North India during the winter. Nearly all northern routes originate in New Delhi, where from early December through to February, smog has become an increasingly common morning hazard, sometimes delaying depar­tures by several hours. These delays then affect the whole northern system for the rest of that day.

Air travel tips:

Security: Indian Airlines don't permit batteries in cabin baggage, and once confis­cated, you may never see your batteries again. You may need to identify your baggage after they have been checked in and just before they are loaded onto the plane. All baggage destined for the hold must be X-rayed by security before check-in, so do this first on arrival at the airport.
Telephone: There is a free telephone service at major airports (occasionally through the tourist office counter) to contact any hotel of your choice.

Wait-lists: If you don't have a confirmed booking and are 'wait-listed' it pays to arrive early at the airport and be persistent in enquiring about your position.

Road
Road travel is often the only choice for reaching many of the places of outstanding interest in which India is so rich. For the uninitiated, travel by road can also be a worry­ing experience because of the apparent absence of conventional traffic regulations and also in the mountains, especially during the rainy season when landslides are pos­sible. Vehicles drive on the left - i n theory. Routes around the major cities are usually crowded with lorry traffic {especially at night), and the main roads are often poor and Mow. There are few motorway-style expressways but most main roads are single car­riageway. Some district roads are quiet, and although they are not fast they can be a good way of seeing the country and village life if you have the time.
Other than the national highways the roads within Rajasthan are not as well main­tained as in most of Gujarat and the distances are long, but the state has good accom­modation and it is even possible to make a trip staying at heritage hotels, travelling less than three to four hours a day.

Bus:
Buses now reach virtually every part of India, offering a cheap, if often uncomfortable means of visiting places off the rail network. Very few villages are now more than 2 or 3 km from a bus stop. Services are run by the State Corporation from the State Bus Stand (and private companies which often have offices nearby). The latter allow advance res­ervation and though tickets prices are a little higher, they have fewer stops and area bit more comfortable.
There are three categories: A/c luxury coaches: Though comfortable for sight-seeing trips, apart from the very best 'sleeper coaches', even these can be vqry uncomfortable for really long journeys. Often the air conditioning is very cold, so wrap up warm! Journeys over 10 hours can be extremely tiring so it is better to go by train if there is a choice.

Express buses: Run over long distances (frequently overnight), these are often called 'video coaches' and can be an appalling experience unless you appreciate loud film music blasting through the night. Ear plugs and eye masks may ease the pain. They rarely average more than 45 km per hour.
Local buses: These are often very crowded, quite bumpy and slow and usually poorly maintained. However, over short distances, they can be a very cheap, friendly and easy way of getting about. Even where signboards are not in English someone will usually give you directions. Many larger towns have minibus services which charge a little more than the buses and pick up and drop passengers on request. Again very crowded, and with restricted headroom, they are the fastest way of getting about many of the larger towns.

Bus travel tips: Some towns have different bus stations for different destinations. Book­ing on major long-distance routes is now computerized. Book in advance where possible and avoid the back of the bus where it can be very bumpy. If your destination is only served by a local bus you may do better to take the Express bus and 'persuade' the driver, with a tip in advance, to stop where you want to get off. You will have to pay the full fare to the first stop beyond your destination but you will get there faster and more comfort­ably. When an unreserved bus pulls into a bus station, there is usually an unholy scramble for seats, whilst those arriving have to struggle to get off! In many areas there is an unwritten 'rule of reservation' using handkerchiefs or bags thrust through the windows to reserve seats. Some visitors may feel a more justified right to a seat having fought their way through the crowd, but it is generally best to do as the local people do and be pre­pared with a handkerchief or 'sarong'. As soon as it touches the seat, it is yours!

Car: A car provides a chance to travel off the beaten track, and gives unrivalled opportuni- ties for seeing something of India's great variety of villages and small towns. Until recently the most widely used hire car was the Hindustan Ambassador. However, it is often very unreliable, and although they still have their devotees, many find them uncomfortable for long journeys. For a similar price, Maruti cars and vans (Omni) are much more reliable and comfortable, and are now the preferred choice in many areas. Gypsy 4WDs and Jeeps are also available, especially in the national parks and the desert. Maruti Esteems are comfortable and have optional reliable a/c, so are recommended in the hot weather. A specialist operator can be very helpful in arrang­ing itineraries and car hire in advance.

Car hire, with a driver, is generally cheaper than in the West. A car shared by three or four can be very good value. Two or three-day trips from main towns can also give excellent opportunities for sightseeing off the beaten track in reasonable comfort. Local drivers often know their way much better than drivers from other states, so where possible it is a good idea to get a local driver who speaks the state language, in addition to being able to communicate with you. Drivers may sleep in the car over­night, though hotels sometimes provide a bed for them. You are responsible for all their expenses, including their meals. A tip at the end of the tour of Rs 100 per day in addition to their daily allowance is perfectly acceptable. Check beforehand if fuel and inter-state taxes are included in the hire charge. Be sure to check carefully the mileage at the beginning and end of the trip.
Cars can be hired through private companies. International companies such as Hertz, Europcar and Budget operate in some major cities and offer reliable cars; their rates are generally higher than those of local firms, eg SaiService, Wheels). The price of an imported car can be three times that of the Ambassador.

Importing a car Tourists may import their own vehicles into India with a Carnet de Passage (Triptyques) issued by any recognized automobile association or club_affili-ated to the Alliance Internationale de Tourisme in Geneva.
Self-drive Car hire is still in its infancy and many visitors may find the road condi­tions difficult and sometimes dangerous. If you drive yourself it is essential to take great care. Pedestrians, cattle and a wide range of other animals roam at will. This can be particularly dangerous when driving after dark especially as even other vehicles often carry no lights.
 
Car travel tips Fuel: On main roads across India petrol stations are reasonably fre- quent, but some areas are poorly served. Some service stations only have diesel pumps  though they may have small reserves of petrol. Always carry a spare can. Diesel is widely available and normally much cheaper than petrol. Petrol is rarely above 92 octane. Insurance: Drivers must have third party insurance. This may have to be with an Indian insurer, or with a foreign insurer who has a national guarantor. You must also be in possession of an 'International Driving Permit', issued by a recognised driving authority in your home country (eg the AA in the UK, apply at least six weeks before leaving). Asking the way: Can be very frustrating as you are likely to get widely con­flicting advice each time you stop to ask. On the main roads, 'mile' posts periodically appear in English and can help. Elsewhere, it is best to ask directions often. Accidents: Often produce large and angry crowds very quickly. Itts'best to leave the scene of the ,a ccident and report it to the police as quickly as possible thereafter. Provisions: Ensure that you have adequate food and drink, and a basic tool set in the car.

Taxi tips: At stations and airports it is often possible to share taxis to a central point. it is worth looking for fellow passengers who may be travelling in your direction and
get a pre-paid taxi. At night, always have a clear idea of where you want to go and insist on being taken there. Taxi drivers may try to convince you that the hotel you have chosen closed three years ago', is 'completely full' or is an 'unsafe den'. You may have to say that you have an advance reservation. See individual city entries for more details.

Auto-rickshaws ('autos') are almost universally available in towns across India and are  
the cheapest convenient way of getting about. In addition to using them for short jour-neys it is often possible to hire them by the hour, or for a half or full day's sight-seeing.  
in some areas younger drivers who speak some English and know their local area well,   
may want to show you around. However, rickshaw drivers are often paid a commission  
by hotels, restaurants and gift shops, so advice is not always impartial. Drivers some-   times refuse to use a meter, quote a ridiculous price or attempt to stop short of your destination. If you have real problems it can help to threaten to go to the police.

Chhakras: One of the most distinctive features of Gujarat's transport is the ubiquitous Chhakra or chhagra. This hybrid motorbike cum autorickshaw has evolved out of its old Enfield engine and chassis to a completely new three wheeled vehicle. A diesel Kirloskar tubewell pump engine has replaced the petrol driven 'Enfield' while the old gear box has been retained, along with its chassis. However, Bullet motorcycle springs have been added, designed to allow the chhakra to take 500 kg of goods. Licensed
only for the transport of freight, throughout Gujarat they have become one of the
commonest means of passenger transport.

The hazards of road travel
On most routes it is impossible to average more than 50-60 kph in a car. Journeys me often very long, and can seem an endless succession of horn blowing, unexpected dangers and unforeseen Mays. Villages are often congested -beware of the concealed spine-breaking speed bumps - and cattle, sheep and qoats may wander at will across the road. Directions can also be difficult to find. Drivers frequently don't know the way, maps are often hopelessly inaccurate and map reading is an almost entirely unknown skill. Training in driving is negligible and the test often a farce. You will note a characteristic side-saddle posture, one hand constantly on the horn, but there can be real dangers from poor judgement, irresponsible overtaking and a general philosophy of 'might is right.

Cycle-rickshaws and horse-drawn tongas: These are more common in the more rustic setting of a small town or the outskirts of a large one. You will need to fix a price by bargaining. The animal attached to a tonga usually looks too undernourished to have the strength to pull the driver, leave alone passengers.

Cycling: Cycling is an excellent way of seeing the quiet by-ways of India and is particularly enjoyable if you travel with a companion. It is easy to hire bikes in most small towns from about 20 rs per day. Indian bikes are heavy and without gears, but on the flat they offer way of exploring comparatively short distances outside towns. In the more prosperous tourist resorts, mountain bikes are now becoming available, but at a higher hire charge. It is also quite possible to tour more extensively and yoj may then want to buy a cycle.

Motorcycling: Motorcycling across India is particularly attractive for bike enthusiasts. It is easy to buy new Indian-made motorcycles including the Enfield Bullet and several 10)cc Japanese models, including Suzukis and Hondas made in collaboration with Indianfirms. Buying new ensures greater reliability and fixed price - (Indian Rajdootsare less expensive but have a poor reputation for reliability). Buying second hand in Rupees tales more time but is quite possible; expect to get a 30-40% discount. You can get a broker to help with the paper-work involved (certificate of ownership, insurarce etc) for a fee. They charge about Rs 5,000 for a 'No Objection Certificate' (NOC) which is essential for resell­ing; it is easier to have the bike in your name.
When selling, don't be in a hurry, and only negotiate with "ready rash" buyers. A black bike is easier to sell than a coloured one! Repairs are usually easy to arrange and quite cheap. Bring your own helmet and an International Driving Permit.

Train
Trains can still be the cheapest and most comfortable means of travelling long dis tances saving you hotel expenses on overnight journeys. It gives access to booking sta-tion Retiring Rooms, which can be useful from time to time. Above all, you have an ideal opportunity to meet local travellers and catch a glimpse of life on the ground although the dark glass fitted on a/c coaches does restrict vision.

Highspeed Trains: There are over 170 air-conditioned 'high-speed' Shatabdi (or 'Century') for day travel, and Rajdhani Express ('Capital City') for overnight journeys. These cover large sections of the network but as they are in high demand you need to book them up to 60 days ahead. Meals and drinks are usually included.

Royal trains: You can travel like a maharaja on the New Palace on Wheels which gives visitors an opportunity to see some of the 'royal' cities in Rajasthan during the winter months.