Around jhalawar

The huge and dramatic Gagron Fort is located at the junction of the Ahu and Kali Sindh rivers that protected it from three sides. In the classical categorisation of forts in India, this is a rare one because it is a jal-durg (water-protected fort) as well as van-durg (fprest-protected fort). Begun in the 7th century, with additions till the 14th, it was controlled succes­sively by Rajputs, Mandu Sultans, Khaljis, Mughals, Kota and Jhalawar. The fort pro­vides spectacular views from many van­tage points, especially from the burj at the very end, and unexpected treats in the form of well-preserved chambers, stun­ning doorways and arches and pillars.
 

 Chandkheri (35 km NE)

The scenic road to Adinath Jain Temple at Chandkheri, near Khanpur, meanders past soyabean and maize fields and ponds and lakes, all punctuated by the Kali Sindh, Ahu and Ujad rivers. Held sacred by Digambar Jain devotees, the temple's tranquil sanctum sanctorum features a stunning, larger-than-life stone statue of the first Jain Tirthankara Adinath. Ghee offerings and the aromatic smoke from loss sticks have given the original red stone of this 5th-century statue a rich chocolate colour, lending it a beauty that is at once earthy and celestial. The statue was placed in this huge temple complex — where expansion work continues to this day — in the 17th century, after it was discovered in the nearby Shergarh-Barapati forests. Images of Lord Parshwa-nath, Chandra Prabhu and Sambhavanth adorn the upper sanctum. The temple is crowded during the birthday celebrations of Adinath (from Chaitra Shukla 7, 8 and 9), when the deity is taken in a proces­sion around the complex.
Temple timings 6 am-10 pm.
It's best to hire a taxi from Kota to explore Jhalawar, Jhalarpatan and Chandkheri together.  

 Buddhist Caves (90 km SW)

Few visitors to Rajasthan are aware of the existence of the antique Buddhist monas­tic caves in the Kolvi and Vinayaka hil­locks in Jhalawar District. The drive to these hillocks, en route to Dag, gives one a splendid introduction to Jhalawar's pretty countryside, which is a mosaic of fields and water bodies.

The caves date back to the post-Ashoka period of Buddhist expansion. The Hadoti group is said to share the chhatri of the Bhaja, Karla and Ajanta cave monasteries in Maharashtra. The Kolvi, Vinayaka and Hathygod Cave complexes are separated from each other by about 5-6 km, so if you want to explore all three, keep at least 2 hrs in hand.

The Kolvi Complex (protected by the ASI and also the most approachable cave) can be accessed from the Bhawani Mandi railhead; a 3-km long gravel path to the right side of the main road will lead you here. Do remember that you need to climb up by about 200 ft before you reach the cave. A steep walk up a hill will get you to both the Vinayaka and Hathyagod caves as well.

A decorative temple structure greets the visitor at the Kolvi Cave, which is scattered with images of meditating Buddhas set in stupa-like structures. The vaulted ceiling, the ornamental and pil­lared chaityas (prayer halls), the stupas (some of which rise from the floor to ceil­ing), the double-decker residential quar­ters and the jharokas are lovely but in dire need of conservation.

 The Gunai Cave

A short distance away, has nine residential quarters. The Kayavarneshwar Shiva Temple, with a lotus pond, is a little further on, and is quite crowded with devotees on Maha Shivaratri. The Vinayaka Cave Complex is full of bats and is the farthest from the main road. It has 23 residential quarters (some double-storeyed) and a stupa-like temple structure. Though the Hathyagod Cave is the first one from the Bhawani Mandi side, you may want to visit it on your return to Jhalawar. A tough climb up the hill will take you to the cave's rock-cut temple and 11 residential cells.

Do remember that it will help to ask the locals for directions to the caves. It is also advisable to wear a sturdy pair of walking shoes.
 

 Darbar ki Kothi

The royal family of Jhalawar continues to stay in what the locals call the Darbar ki Kothi, generously sharing not just their home but also their memories and traditions with the guest. For the heritage enthusiast, this palace, formally called Prithvi Vilas Palace, is better than an impersonal heritage hotel inasmuch as it is a lived-in home. Set in some 150 acres of land, surrounded by a delicious lotus moat, replete with intricate carving, domes, chhatris, sumptuous furnit­ure and old portraits, it's the best place to stay in Jhalawar, but is also a site worth visiting in its own right.
If one went nowhere else in the Jhalawar area, one could just retreat here — relaxing with a book and some squirrels and birdsong in the grounds; having tea at the brimming baoli; or strolling to the Sati Temple, made of marble, and red and pink sandstone.

You can discover a facsimile of a 1664 edition of Mr. William Shakespeare's Comedies, Histories and Tragedies in the atmospheric library, and get away from the world on the windswept rooftop. And, of course, you can hear stories from an erstwhile queen, such as that of the 'ikdanta haathi' (one-tusked elephant) that came as a gift on the occasion of a royal engagement. Some special pachydermal dentistry was done to create a twin tusk for him, which was so strong that the dancer Kukki Bai could perform on a wooden slab placed between the two!