Places To See And Do

One of the reasons for coming to Dungar­pur can well be that you want to do noth­ing. In that case, book yourself a room in the Udai Bilas Palace (see Where to Stay on page 164), grab a long chair near their pool all day long and just be. On the other hand, if you are in Dungarpur to absorb all that it has to offer, it has a trick or two up its sleeve. The antiquity and the hidden treasures of the Old Palace, the surfeit of birdwatching opportunities and the multi-cultural dimensions here take you by surprise. Dungarpur can keep you interested for two or even three days.

JJuna Mahal

Literally the Old Palace, the Juna Mahal is well and truly old. Some claim, with justi­fiable reasons, that it is the oldest existing royal palace complex in India, perhaps in the world. The construction of the palace was started sometime in the 13th century and for about 650 years it was occupied by a single royal dynasty — the Guhilot Rajputs. Throughout these centuries the palace building was growing, usually ver­tically. Now it is a wonderful edifice, nine storeys high, with two levels under­ground. The structure has suffered in the few decades of non-occupancy.

The Juna Mahal has a dominant location on a 1,476-foot high hill atop the old township of Dungarpur, and its towering chhatris and engraved balconies are eye­catching even from a distance. The palace is made of a beautiful bluish grey local stone called pareva stone and is an exqui­site example of temple architecture being introduced into royal residences. The dec­orative elements include pillars, brackets and arches; the carvings depict warriors, dancers and musicians. The interiors of the palace are a veritable museum — its various chambers are tastefully decorated with ornamental mirror work, stone inlays and glass inlays.

However, the most impressive are the paintings. There are depictions of gods, with Krishna and his playful stories being the favourite. There are court scenes and hunting expeditions. On the walls you will see Gangaur Festival being celebrat­ed, the Bhils of Dungarpur being defeated in a battle by the Rajputs and a portrait of Queen Victoria. There is also a whimsical display wherein murals dramatising highly athletic Kama Sutra postures are concealed discreetly in a cupboard. You can spend over two hours at the palace.

Location 4 km south-east of Udai Bilas Palace
Timings All day Note Tickets have to be bought from Udai Bilas Palace, and the caretaker at the Juna Mahal will show you around.

  Birdwatching

Dungarpur is too small a town to offer much by way of shopping opportunities. In the old town in the main bazaar you will come across silver smiths who have charming silver jewellery in local designs.  

square. There are people idling under its shade and small shops do their business beneath the tree. The temple occupies a scenic spot next to the River Som. The temple, said to be from the 12th century, is a three-storeyed structure. The archi­tecture of the temple gives a very satis­fying effect, not because of its delicacy but because its large constituents come together in a rare harmony. From the temple walk down to the river through a grassy patch and sit at the small but attractively made ghat on the river. The taxi fare is Rs 600 for a return-trip.

  Galiakot (49 km SE)

Galiakot is an important pilgrimage site especially for Dawoodi Bohra Muslims. The small village hosts a marble dargah of Saint Fakhruddin (called Babaji Fakhruddin  Moula).  Dawoodi Bohra Muslims were Brahmin traders in Gujarat who converted to Islam, and now the sect is spread over South Asia. Pilgrims visit the dargah throughout the year, but the most popular pilgrimage time is during the Urs of the saint in the month of Muharram. 

The white marble shrine is located on the banks of Mahi River. Galiakot was once the capital of the Parmars and also of the erstwhile Dungarpur State. A taxi will cost Rs 1,000 for a return-trip.

  Baneshwar (70 km E)

The small town of Banf shwar lies on the delta formed at the confluence of the rivers Som and Mahi. The town has many Hindu temples but is famous for two important temples. The first is the temple to Baneshwar Mahadeo,  meaning the 'Lord of the Delta', a form of Shiva. The other is a shrine dedicated to Mavji, wor­shipped as a reincarnation of Vishnu. Every January/ February, the Baneshwar fair is held here. It is a raucous affair with   , swings,  meny-go-arounds,  singing and bonfires. A taxi will cost Rs 1,000 for a return-trip.