Manali, at the top end of the Kulu Valley,
is the main resort in the valley. It's
beautifully situated, there are many
pleasant walks around the town and a large
number of hotels and restaurants. It's also
very much a 'scene' at the height of the
tourist season it's packed out with Indian
and western tourists. Smaller villages
around Manali have semi-permanent 'hippy'
populations. Manali is famous for its dope
which grows wild all around but there have
been a number of police busts on the more
popular freak hotels so smokers should
beware.
At once both Indian honeymooner's paradise and Himalayan backpacker’s base camp, Manali boasts a range of activities. Romantic treks, handiciaft shopping, rugged mountain biking, and night long raves entice some visitors into month-long stays, but a day or two resting up in Manali should suffice for the traveler heading to the north in Ladakh or to the east in Lahaul and Spiti. The Mull and the Model Town in Manali are the headquarters of the Indian tourist ivasion, but choice guest houses and restaurants make Old Manali a more mellow and inviting option.
۞How To Reach :
Flights: The nearest airport is the Kullu-Manali Airport in Bhuntar, 52km from Manali. Matkon Travel, at the intersection of Old Manali Rd. and The Mall, is the agent for Jagson Airlines.
Buses: The bus stand is right in the center of the Mall. To: Amritsar; Chamba; Dehra Dun; Delhi; Dharamsala; Haridwar; Jammu; Keylong ; Kullu; Leh; Naggar; Shimla. Government deluxe buses can be booked at the Himachal Tourism Marketing Office. The deluxe bus stand is at the southern end of town, a 300m walk down along The Mall.
۞ Information
about Manali
Manali has one main
street where you'll find the bus
stop and most of the restaurants.
The Tourist Office is further down
the street towards the river and
opposite the taxi stand. Hotels are
scattered all over town, some of
them within easy walking distance of
the bus stop, some of them, like the
Tourist Bungalow, a good long
stretch uphill.
۞Orientation :
Manali is built in a rough "Y" shape. The Mall makes up the trunk, where you'll find a bus stand and most other tourist services. Off to either side are alleys lined with gift shops, dhabas, and provision stores. The latter are particularly common just behind and north of the bus stand. The Mall splits at the Nehru Statue, and the left fork leads uphill 1km on the Old Manali Road, separating Model Town on the left from the Great Himalayan National Park on the right before making a descent to the bridge over the Manalsu River. Across the bridge, Old Manali spreads out along the uphill road to your left. Taking the right fork at the Nehru statue leads you across the Beas River bridge. Continue 2km upstream along the road and turn right for the steep Nalagarh is the gateway to Himachal Pradesh in North India.
۞ Kulu to
Manali
There are a number of
interesting things to see along the
42 km between Kulu and Manali. There
are actually two Kulu-Manali roads,
the direct road runs along the west
bank of the Beas while the much
rougher and more winding east bank
road is not so regularly used, but
does take you via Naggar with its
delightful rest house.
Raison
Only eight km from Kulu there's a
camping place on the grassy meadow
beside the river. It's a good base
for treks in the vicinity. There are
huts at the site which cost Rs 10
and can be booked through the Kulu
Tourist Office.
Katrain
At about the mid-point on the
Kulu-Manali road this is the widest
point in the Kulu Valley and is
overlooked by the 3325 metre
Baragarh peak. Two km up the road on
the left side there is a trout
hatchery.
Naggar
High above Katrain, on the east bank
of the river, is Naggar with its
superb castle rest house. Transport
to the castle is a little
problematical but the effort is
worthwhile for it is a superb place
to look around or stay at. At one
time Naggar was the capital of the
Kulu Valley and the castle was the
Raja's headquarters. Around 1660
Sultanpur, now known as Kulu, became
the new capital. The quaint old fort
is built around a courtyard with
verandahs right round the outside
and absolutely stupendous views out
over the valley. It feels an eon
away from any of the hassles India
can dish up! Inside the courtyard is
a small temple containing a slab of
stone with an interesting legend
about how it was carried there by
wild bees.
There are a number of interesting
temples around the castle. The grey
sandstone Shiva temple of Gauri
Shankar is at the foot of the small
bazaar below the castle and dates
from the 11th or 12th century.
Almost opposite the front of the
castle is the curious little Chatar
Bhuj temple to Vishnu. Higher up the
hill is the pagoda like Triptira
Sundri Devi Temple and higher still,
on the ridge above Naggur, the
Murlidhar Krishna temple. Also up
the hill above the castle is Roerich
Gallery, a fine old house displaying
the works of Professor Nicholas
Roerich, who died in 1947, and his
son. Its location is delightful and
the views over the valley are very
fine.
Kulu - Manali
Transport
Buses run regularly
along the main road for Rs 4, the
trip takes under two hours. There
are only one or two buses daily on
the east side of the river and the
trip takes a long time, two hours
from manali to Naggar alone. There
is a daily tour bus from Manali
which costs Rs 15. Cars can get to
Naggar by crossing the river
Kulu-Manali bus there and walk up.
It's six km up to the castle by road
but much less on foot although the
path is very steep.
Places
to Eat
Right beside the bus
station is the Monalisa Restaurant,
a popular little place with
excellent food, great music, a
varied menu and attentive (uniformed
no less) service. It's probably a
little expensive for some pockets
but if you'd like to eat well in
Manali it's highly recommended.
There are quite a few other places
around Manali like the Mount View
Restaurant just down from the bus
stop, for good Chinese-Tibetan food.
Or the Adarsh Restaurant and the
Mayur Restaurant. The Chandratal
Restaurant is run by the HPTDC with
the standard tourist department menu
not so special. Between the Tourist
Office and the bus stop there's a
little place with delicious, and
cold, bottled apple juice. Following
the road out of town you'll come to
the Moonlight Restaurant a spartan
little place with good bread and
cakes, the local freak centre. The
HPTDC's Cafe Rohtang, up the hill
overlooking the river, has fine
views but is rather unfriendly.
- SightSeeing In Manali :
Old Manali Village
The current town of Manali is
actually a new creation which
has superseded the old village,
a couple of km away. Follow the
trail off the road out of town
and you cross the cascading
Manaslu stream over a very
picturesque bridge and can then
climb up to this interesting
little village.
Around the Town
Manali is basically a place to
get out and walk but there are a
few places of interest in the
town itself such as the
colourful new Tibetan Monastery.
It's a pleasant place and also
has a carpet making operation;
you can buy them and other
Tibetan handicrafts here. The
Tourist Office will arrange a
fishing licence if you want to
try your luck with the Beas
River trout you'll need your own
gear though.
Tours
There are daily bus tours to the
Rohtang Pass (Rs 35) and Naggar
Castle (Rs 15).
Vashisht Baths
Vashisht village is an extremely
picturesque little place,
clinging to the steep hillside
about six km out of Manali. On
foot it's only about 4.5 km
since you can follow paths up
the hillside while cars have to
wind up the road. Worth a wander
round to admire the solid
architecture, thatched roofs and
colourful people. On the way up
to the village you'll come upon
the Vashisht Hot Baths where a
natural sulphur spring is piped
into a recently constructed
bathhouse. They're open from 7
am to 1 pm and 2 to 7 pm and
cost, for 20 minutes soak, Rs 3
(plus Rs 1 per , person) in the
small baths, Rs 5 (plus Rs 2 per
person) in the large deluxe
ones. If you've suffered a long,
rough bus trip up to Manali
there's no better way to soak
away the strain.
Hadimba Devi Temple. The four-tiered Hadimba Devi Temple, with its pagoda shaped roof, is dedicated to the demoness-turned-goddess Hadimba, wife of Bhima. Valley residents claim the king cut off the builder's hand to prevent n temple's duplication. Undaunted by the amputation, the builder trained his left hand and constructed an even more elaborate temple at Tritoknath. Walk 5min. along Old Manali Rd., turn left, and follow the signs. Open to vlilm between sunrise and sunset; ask permission before entering.
The temple of the goddess
Hadimba, who plays such a major
part in Kulu's annual festival,
is a sombre, wooden temple in a
clearing in the dense forest
about 2.5 km from the Tourist
Office. It's a pleasant stroll
up to the temple which was built
in 1553. Also known as the
Dhungri Temple there is a major
festival here in May of each
year.
Manu Temple. The Manu Temple, a 30min. walk uphill from Old Manali, is reputedly where Manu first stepped onto the earth after a flood. Manu, the first man to possesss knowledge, and his wife Shatrupa, had a series of thoughtful children who developed the world's religions. The temple was rebuilt in 1992 with vaulted ceiling and marble floors. Wear dresses covering the knees and shoulders while in the temple.
Great Himalayan National Park. The park shows visitors what the towering pine forests might have looked like before the modern architectural invasion.
Daytrip From Manali The temple in Vashisht has a natural hot springs bath. There is a medium sized small tank filled with hot spring water where men can bathe, and a small cubicle nearby with a door where women can bathe (although the latter is mostly used to wash clothes). Men should wear bathing shorts, not swimsuits, while in the tank since it is a public space near the temple. The Mountaineering Institute, 2km south of the bridge over the Beas River, offers courses in mountaineering, skiing, and water sports throughout the year, The institute can also organize expeditions for large groups.For info, write to: Mountaineering Institute, Manali, HP 175131. Farther south is Jagat Suk and its tiny-yet-glorious Shiva temple. The regular bus from Manali will drop you in Jagat Suk, where you can check out the temple and drink chai with the locals. The Rohtang La (3998m), open erratically between June and September, is the only motorable way into the Lahaul-Spiti area from Manali . Although it's best described as a polar dump (the place is a mess of tea tents and scattered debris),Rohtang can still make for a decent trip if you're looking for high-altitude scenery. Buses, as well as HPTDC tours, will take you here. Check out the creative HPPWD road advice on the way up, including slogans like "Divorce speed” and "Peep, peep, don't go to sleep."
Around Manali
Jagatsukh
About 12 km north of Naggar and six km south
ali on the east bank road, Jagatsukh
was another former capital of Kulu State
until it was supplanted by Naggar. There are
some very old temples in the village,
particularly the Shiva temple in shikhara
style. Shooru village, nearby, has the old
and historically interesting Devi Sharvali
temple.
Around Manali
Arjun Gufa, with a legendary cave, is near
the village of Prini, five km from Manali. A
cold water spring named the Nehru Kund,
after Prime Minister Nehru, is six km from
Manali on the Keylong road. The Solang
Valley is a little north-west of Manali, but
before Kothi. The nearest glacier to Manali
is here, only 13 km from Manali. You can get
there by bus to Palchan village then
following the jeep track. Kothi is a pretty
little village, 12 km from Manali on the
Keylong road. Its rest house is a popular
resting place for trekkers heading for the
Ron tang Pass. There are very fine views
from Kothi and the Beas River flows through
a very deep and narrow gorge at this point.
The Rahla Falls, 16 km away, are another
popular excursion.
The Rohtang Pass to Lahaul is 51 km from
Manali and is a favourite day excursion or
trekking trip quite apart from its role as
the gateway into Lahaul. The view of
mountains from the pass crest is very
spectacular. In early summer and late autumn
the pass can be Subject to strong winds and
snow blizzards in the afternoon so try to
cross it early.
TREKS FROM MANALI
There are many treks from Manali either
round trips or further afield.
Malana Valley
It is less than 30 km from Katrain, on the
Kulu Mnnali road, across the Chandrakhani
Pass to the interesting Malana Valley. The
pass is at less than 3600 metres and is open
from March to December. Malana can also be
reached from the Parbati Valley either from
Manikaran over the 3150 metre Rashoi Pass or
from Jari. Jari is connerted with the Kulu
Valley by a jeepable road and it is only 12
km from Jari to Malana.
There are only about 500 people in Malana
and they speak a peculiar dialect with
strong Tibetan elements. The 6001 metre peak
of Deo Tibba overlooks Malana and from the
top of the Chandrakhani Pass you can see
snow capped peaks on the border of Spiti to
the east. Starting from Naggar it is
possible to climb up to the pass summit and
return to Naggar on the same day but it is
fairly hard going.
Local legends relate that when Jamlu, the
main deity of Malana, first came to Malana
he bore a casket containing all the other
Kulu gods. At the top of the pass he opened
the casket and the breeze carried the gods
to their present homes, all over the valley.
At the time of the Dussehra festival in
Kulu, Jamlu plays a special part. He is a
very powerful god with something of the
demon in him. He does not have a temple
image so, unlike the other Kulu gods, has no
temple car to be carried in. Nor does he
openly show his allegiance to Ragbhunathji,
the paramount Kulu god, like the other Kulu
gods. At the time of the festival Jamlu goes
down to Kulu, but stays on the east side of
the river from where he watches the
proceedings. Every few years a major
festival is held for Jamlu in the month of
Bhadon. In the temple there is a silver
elephant with a gold figure on its back
which is said to have been a gift from the
Emperor Akbar. It takes three days to trek
from Naggar to Malana, spend a day there,
then return to Naggar or continue to Jari. A
seven day trek Manali to Manali could be:
Day 1
Manali-Rumsu
2060 m 24 km
Day 2
Rumsu-Chandrakhani
3650 m 8 km
Day 3
Chandlrakhani-Malana
2100 m 7 km
Day 4
Malana-Kasol
1580 m 8 km
Day 5
Kasol-Jari
1560 m 15 km
Day 6
Jari-Bhuntar
900 m 12 km
Day 7
Buntar-Manali
by
bus
The trek can be extended by continuing from
Jari along the east bank of the Beas via
Bijli Mahadev, with its famous temple, and
Naggar to Manali.
Deo Tibba Trek
This is an easy trek east of Manali to the
base of 6001 metre Deo Tibba. The trek
offers fine views and pleasant walking
through forests and alpine meadows. From
Manali you start via Jagatsukh to Khanol and
Chhika (not the Chhika north-east of Manali
on the way to the Hamta Pass). Seri is at
the base of Deo Tibba and from here you can
make an excursion to Lake Chandratal.
Day 1
Manali-Khanol
8 km
Day 2
Khanol-Chhika
5
km
Day 3
Chhika-Seri
6
km
Day 4
Seri-Bhanara
14
km
Day 5
Bhanara-Manali
Chandratal
This circular trek from Manali over the
Hamta, Chandratal and Baralacha la passes is
one of the finest in Himachal Pradesh and
takes 11 days to complete. From Manali you
start at Jagatsukh, on the east bank road to
Kulu. At the village of Prini you turn
north-east and climb up to Chhika a steep
climb at first but later it becomes easier
over grassy downs and pleasant meadows. The
next day involves a long and wearisome climb
over the 4270 metre Hamta Pass, then a quick
descent to Chhatru on the Chandra River. The
pass is generally open from June to
September although it may often be open
longer. There are fine views of Deo Tibba
(6001 metres) and Indrasan (6221 metres)
from the pass. Two days walk takes you
through Chhota Dara to Batal where the route
branches off north-east to Spiti through the
Kunzam Pass. There are magnificent views of
the Bara Shigri glacier from here.
Succeeding days take you north over the
Chandratal (lake of the moon) pass, the
Likhim Gongma (upper) and Likhim Yongma
(lower) and the Tokpu Yongma before reaching
the Keylong-Leh road at the Baralacha la
pass. Three more days walk brings you to
keylong from where you can bus back to
Munali. It may be possible to get a bus
earlier and shorten the time to Keylong.
Day 1
Manali-Chhika
2960 m 21 km
Day 2
Chhika-Chhatru
3360 m 16 km
Day 3
Chhatru-Chhota Dara
3740 m 16 km
Day 4
Chhota Dara-Batal
3960 m 16 km
Day 5
Batal-Chandratal
4270 m 18 km
Day 6
Chandratal-Likhim Yongma
4320 m 12 km
Day 7
Likhim Yongma-Topko Gongma
4640 m 11
km
Day
8
Topko Gongma-Baralacha
la
4885 m 10 km
Day 9
Baralacha la-Patsio
3820 m 19 km
Day 10
Patsio-Jispa
3320 m 14 km
Day 11
Jispa-Keylong
3340 m 21 km
Parbati Valley
The last part of the Malana Valley trek
decends the Parbati Valley to its junction
with the Kulu Valley. An interesting
alternative is to ascend the Parbati Valley
to its upper reaches. The Parbati Valley is
much wilder and more rugged than the Kulu
Valley. From Bhuntar, near the junction of
the Beas and Parbati you can visit the
Adibrahma temple in Khokhan about a km from
Nhuntar or the pagoda shaped temple of
Triyugi Narain in Diar village. The first
day's walk takes you to Jari, on a hillside
high above the Parbati and near where the
Malana Joins the Parbati.
It's a short trek to Kasol with its
pleasantly sited Tourist Hut and Forest Rest
House. Good trout fishing here. Manikaran is
a very short walk but the river is wild at
this point and Manikaran is also famed for
its hot springs. The spring close to the
river as you enter the village is boiling
hot. It's a long walk,rough and stoney at
first, to Pulga where again there is a very
pleasant Forest Rest House. The pretty
little village is 300 meters above the
river. This is the usual end point of this
trek although hardy and well-equipped
trekkers could continue further up the
Parbati and cross the Pin Parbati Pass into
Spiti. Khirganga, just 10 km upstream from
Pulga, has more hot springs. Or you could
expolre the Tos Nullah which joins the
Parbati from the northeast, just upstream
from Pulga.
Day 1
Bhuntar-Jari
15 km
Day 2
Jari-Kasol
8
km
Day 3
Kasol-Manikaran
3
km
Day 4
Manikaran-Pulga
16
km
Seraj Valley to Narkanda
The Seraj Valley branches off south-east
from the southern end of Kulu Velley and
makes an interesting alternative route
between the Kulu Valley and Simla. Aut, on
the main road between Kulu and mani, is the
starting point and Larji, at the junction of
the Sainj and Tirthan rivers is the first
stop. There's a PWD Rest House here and good
fishing is available during March, April and
October when the Sainj river runs clear. In
the lower reaches of the Tirthan valley is
Banjar with an interesting group of temples.
Continuing south you reach Shoja where there
is another PWD Rest House with a scenic
setting. From here you can make excursions
to the old ruined fort of Raghupur Gahr from
where there is a beautiful view, even Simla
can be seen on a clear day. Another
interesting day trip from Shoja is to the
beautiful flower strewn meadow of Dughu
Thatch.
From Shoja you cross the 3135 metre Jalori
Pass. The view of the surrounding mountains
from the pass crest is stunning. Khanag, at
2500 meters, is on the other side of the
pass and again has a PWD Rest House. Ani,
again with a PWD Rest House, is the next
stop and from here you can either continue
straight on the main highway from where
buses run to Nirmand with its temple of Devi
Ambika . There is a bus service between Ani
and Luhri, on the north side of the Sutlej
River.
Day 1
Aut-Larji
5 km
Day 2
Larji-Banjar
20
km
Day 3
Banjar-Shoja
13
km
Day 4
Shoja-Khanag
10
km
Day 5
Khanag-Ani
20
km
Day 6
Ani-Luhri
15
km
As an alternative to this route you can
branch off at Banjar and follow the Tirthan
River to Narakand. Goshaini is the first
day's walk from Banjar but you can get that
far by bus. It's then a gentle climb to
Bathad where there is a PWD Rest House,
followed by a very hard climb to Bashleo
pass at 3250 meters, 13 km on. A steep
descent takes you to Sarahan, only three km
further.
There is another beautifullly situated rest
house here. From here it is too easy,
pleasant walks to Arsu (another PWD Rest
House) and then Rampur on the main road.
Day 3
Banjar-Goshaini
13 km
Day 4
Goshaini- Bathad
16
km
Day 5
Bathad-Sarahan
16
km
Day 6
Sarahan-Arsu
13
km
Day 7
Arsu-Rampur
13
km
Solang Valley
There are a number of treks from Manali to
the Solang Valley looping back to Manali
either from the north or the south. A seven
day trek takes you to Beas Kund, the source
of the Beas River and across the remains of
the dying glaciers. The first day takes you
to Solang Nullah where there is a mountain
hut with rooms for 80 people . There are
ski-runs here in the winter. The second
day's trek continues to Dhundi where you can
see Deo Tibba and Indrasan from this alpine
plateau and admire many alpine flowers. The
third day takes you to Beas Kund and back
and the next day continues to Shagara Dugh
with a good chance of seeing red bears along
the way. On the fifth day you reach Marrhi
over a small 4000 metre pass with views to
the Kulu Valley and the Rohtang Pass.
Finally on day six you continue down the
Keylong-Manali road to Kothi, via the Rahla
water fall, and on the last day return to
Manali.
Day 1
Manali-Solang Nullah
11 km
Day 2
Solang Nullah-Dhundi
8
km
Day 3
Dhundi-Beas Kund
& back
10
km
Day 4
Dhundi-Shagara Dugh
8
km
Day 5
Shagara Dugh-Marrhi
10
km
Day 6
Marrht-Kothi
6
km
Day 7
Kothi-Manali
13
km
Manali Pass Treks
These two treks continue on from the Solang
Valley trek but loop back to Manali from the
south. They are both difficult treks
involving long hard ascents over rugged
terrain. The first alternative continues
from Beas Kund over the Tentu Pass, an
arduous and tiring climb, to Phulangot
through an uninhabited region. You then
cross the Manali Pass to Rani Sui and go via
Bhogi Thatch to Kalath, a little south of
Manali on the Kulu-Manali road.
Day 3
Dhundi-Beas Kund
3540 m 6 km
Day 4
Beas Kund-Tentu
Pass
4996 m 4 km
Day 5
Tentu
Pass-camping ground
3856 m 10 km
Day 6
camping
ground-Phulangot
4000 m 6 km
Day 7
Phulangot-Manali
Pass
4988 in 6 km
Day 8
Manali
Pass-Rani Sui
4200 in 8 km
Day 9
Rani Sui-Bhogi
Thatch
2800 m 6 km
Day 10
Bhogi Thatch-Kalath
1800m 12 km
The second alternative is to join the
Manalsu Nullah from the Manali Pass and
follow this straight back to Manali up to
Day 8 this trek is the same as alternative
one.
An easy trek which includes the last two
days of alternative one involves going to
Rani Sui via Lama Dugh. You leave Manali via
the Hadimba Temple and climb through
pleasant country to the camp site at Lama
Dugh. On the second day you cross the
Thanpri Tibba ridge to Rani Sui and then Day
3 and Day 4 are as Day 9 and Day 10 above.
Back
Manali, at the top end of the Kulu Valley,
is the main resort in the valley. It's
beautifully situated, there are many
pleasant walks around the town and a large
number of hotels and restaurants. It's also
very much a 'scene' at the height of the
tourist season it's packed out with Indian
and western tourists. Smaller villages
around Manali have semi-permanent 'hippy'
populations. Manali is famous for its dope
which grows wild all around but there have
been a number of police busts on the more
popular freak hotels so smokers should
beware.
Manali has one main
street where you'll find the bus
stop and most of the restaurants.
The Tourist Office is further down
the street towards the river and
opposite the taxi stand. Hotels are
scattered all over town, some of
them within easy walking distance of
the bus stop, some of them, like the
Tourist Bungalow, a good long
stretch uphill.
There are a number of
interesting things to see along the
42 km between Kulu and Manali. There
are actually two Kulu-Manali roads,
the direct road runs along the west
bank of the Beas while the much
rougher and more winding east bank
road is not so regularly used, but
does take you via Naggar with its
delightful rest house.
Buses run regularly
along the main road for Rs 4, the
trip takes under two hours. There
are only one or two buses daily on
the east side of the river and the
trip takes a long time, two hours
from manali to Naggar alone. There
is a daily tour bus from Manali
which costs Rs 15. Cars can get to
Naggar by crossing the river
Kulu-Manali bus there and walk up.
It's six km up to the castle by road
but much less on foot although the
path is very steep.
Great Himalayan National Park. The park shows visitors what the towering pine forests might have looked like before the modern architectural invasion.
There are many treks from Manali either
round trips or further afield.
Chandratal
Parbati Valley
Solang Valley