After China's occupation of Tibet began in 1959, the 14th Dalai Lama and his Budhist government were given asylum in Dharamsala. Since then, a steady stream of Tibetan exiles has relocated here, some of them walking across the Himalayas to escape oppression and be near the man they regard as treir religious  and political leader. Today, Upper Daramsala, also called McLeod Ganj-named after David McLeod, a former governor of the Punjab-attracts students, tourists, hippies, and devotees of Buhddhism to its monasteries, meditation centers, and Tibetan shops, giving this refugee community the feel of an energetic  international crossroads. Embraced by the craggy Dhauladar mountains, and covered with pine and deodar forests, Dharamsala commands fantastic views of Himalayan peaks and the Kangra Valley. Several easy hikes from McLeod Ganj lead to the slopes, while more rigorous treks head up and over the snowy passes. In early summer, daily fog  and rain are a constant bother, but in July and August the flowers blossom and infuse the mountain air with a sweet-smelling freshness.

The hill station of Dharamsala is actually split into several totally separate parts. Close to the snowline the town is built along a spur of the Dhauladhar range and varies in height from 1250 metres at the Civil and Depot Bazaar up through Kotwali Bazaar and Forsyth Ganj to McLeod Ganj at close to 2000 metres. There's quite a temperature variation between the top and bottom.

As in other hill stations there are a wide variety of short and long walks around the station but Dharamsala also has the additional attraction of its strong Tibetan influence. It was here that the Dalai Lama and his followers fled after the Chinese invasion of Tibet. For the serious student of Tibetan culture there's the monastery up at McLeod Ganj and the school of Tibetan studies and its library, one of the best in the world for studying Tibet and its culture, about midway between McLeod Ganj and the lower town.

For the not so serious, McLeod Ganj is a real little freak centre with lots of Tibetan run hotels and restaurants, all the menu favourites, low prices, crowds of western travellers another Kathmandu in fact. McLeod Ganj is full of colour and energy; those little Tibetan terriers (yappy but spry) scoot, around everywhere; right in the middle of the main street there's a small temple with a giant prayer wheel, and you may even catch a glimpse of the Dalai Lama cruising by in his Mercedes.

Of course Dharamsala was originally a British hill resort and one of the most poignant memorials of that era is the pretty little Church of St John in the Wilderness, only a short distance below McLeod Ganj. It has beautiful stained glass windows and here Lord Elgin, Viceroy of India, was buried after his death in 1863. There are many fine walks and even finer views around Dharamsala. The sheer rock wall of Dhauladhar rises up right behind McLeod Ganj. From the road up from the lower town it seems just an arm's length away.

From McLeod Ganj popular walks include the two km stroll to Bhagsu where there is an old temple, a spring, slate quarries and a small waterfall. It's a popular picnic spot and you can continue on beyond here on the ascent to the snowline. Dal Lake is a bit brown and dull, it's about three km from McLeod Ganj, just beyond the Tibetan Children's Village School. A similar distance from McLeod Ganj takes you to the popular picnic spot at Dharamkot where you'll also enjoy a very fine view.

An eight km trek from McLeod Ganj will bring you to Triund at 2827 metres. Situated at the foot of Dhauladhar it's another five km to the snowline at Ilaqa. There is a Forest Rest House for overnight accommodation.

Flights: Goggol Airport, 9km from town. Flights to Delhi.During the summer, book in advance.

Buses: Most intercity government buses depart from the bus circle in McLeod Ganj, making a stop at the New Bus Stand in Lower Daramsala. To Chandigarh; Dalhousie; Delhi; Pathankot. The only buses that depart from Lower Dharamsala without stopping in McLeod  Ganj are those that go to: Chamba ; Haridwar; and Shimla.

Local Transportation: Buses run between the New Bus Stand and McLeod Ganj . The shared jeeps that run between Kotwali Bazaar and McLeod Ganj are cramped but faster. You can hike along Jogibara Rd.. Taxi Union Stand beside the bus circle has high fixed rates. They’re only worth it if you’re heading up to Dharamkot or Bhagsu at night or sharing with a few others.

Dharamsala is split into two sections different by 500m in  altitude; this is a result of a massive earthquake in 1905 that destroyed all of the town’s buildings and killed 900 people in the Kangra Valley. Alarmed by the destruction, the British administration established Lower Dharamsala, which now houses mostly office, banks, and the Indian population. The largely Tibetan enclave of Upper Dharamsala(McLeod Ganj)attracts the most tourists. Seven roads branch off the main bus circle in McLeod Ganj. The first is Cantonment Road, the route used by buses to travel to and from Lower Dharamsala. As you go clockwise, the next road is Taxi Stand Road, which leads to the Tibetan Children’s Village. Next is a steep road leading to Dharamkot, 50min. away. The fourth spoke off the bus circle is Tipa Road, which also leads to Dharamkot, Passing the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts(TIPA) on its way. Next, Bhagsu Roadleads to Bhagsu(20min.) after passing many restaurants and hotels. The sixth road is Jogibara Road, and finally, Temple Road leads to the Dalia Lamba’s residence, Tsuglaghang(Main Temple), and Namgyal Monestery. As you walk along TempleRd.,  Rd., you will encounter a fork; both routes lead to Namgyal,but the lower one (to your right) is quicker and has a better view .Bear left and head uphill to reach the Hlmachal Tourism Office and more expensive hotels. A 30min. walk down either Jogibara or Temple Rd. lands you in Gangchen Kyishong, the location of the Tibetan government-in-exile.

The Tourist Office is in the lower town close to the bus stand and the Dauladhar Hotel. It's about 10 km up from the lower part to McLeod Ganj a 45 minute, Rs 1 plus ride. Walking down, take the steep short cut round to the left of the monastery, by the Dalai Lama's home and down to the cantonment by the library. It takes 30 to 40 minutes to walk. Lots of Tibetan handicrafts up in McLeod Ganj, small square Tibetan carpets for Rs 90, bigger five foot by three foot carpets for Rs 750.

Tourist Office: Himachal Tourism Marketing Office, 50m below Kotwali  Bazaar in Lower Dharamsala, before the Bank of Baroda. The McLeod Ganj Office, off TempleRd. behind the Stata Bank of  India, is less helpful.  Both offices am . official holidays and the 2nd Sa. of each month.

Local Services:
Bookstore: Bookworm, on  Temple Rd. At the fork, bear left; it's 10m up on the right. Carries the standard  standard books on Tibet and Buddhism, as well as English-language classics. Buys books as well. Namgyal Bookshop, Namgyal Monastery,  next to the Tsuglaghang. All proceeds go to the government-in-exile.

Food
The heavy, flat noodles and hunks of mutton should remind you that you're in Tibetan culinary territory. Yet the apple pie on the dessert menu leaves no doubt that Dharamsala is, at the same time, both tourist trap and traveler's heaven