Closest to the capital of Panaji (also called Panjim) are Miramar and Dona Paula beaches, both city beaches written up in tourist brochures. Avoid them. At Miramar, the swimming is marred by a strong undertow, broken glass and garbage litter the sand, and some of the buildings are architectural eyesores. Dona Paula is a glorified cement dock crowded with vendors.

For the most seclusion, head north toward Arambol Beach, cloistered in cliffs (and popular with European hippies), or, farther south, to Palolem Beach or another less-developed beach below Colva. For pure beauty coupled with the comforts of a beach resort, opt for either Colva or Baga beach. If you want to windsurf or waterski, go to Sinquerim or Bogmalo beach, both an easy drive from Panaji. Surfers find that Goa's waves and wind generally only rise high enough during monsoon season.

Integral to the Goan beach experience are the vendors. You'll be approached constantly by men and women offering "Pineapples?" "Cheese?" "Cold drink?" "Drums?" Their persistence can drive you into the water. Nomadic Lambani women dressed in vibrant colors and silver jewelry set up blankets cluttered with handicrafts, jewelry, embroideries, and quilts.

For a slice of native Goan life, visit a weekly market. On Wednesday between September and May, vendors sell mostly Indian and Tibetan crafts and artifacts on Anjuna Beach, where a strong smell of fish fills the air. Friday is the big market day in Mapusa, the main town in the Bardez district; people from adjoining villages and even transplanted hippies convene to veil everything from vegetables to blue jeans to handicrafts. It's an ideal place to buy souvenirs.